Bypass RV electrical?

Please except this as friendly concern: Yes it can be done. However, if you do not know how, are you sure you are the right person to correct the whole “mess” of your RV electrical?

I agree with just there. In fact I've done that one of my air conditioners has the OPTION to be operated 100% independent of the rest of the rig.

There used to be a company (PSRV or Power Solutions RV) that made a device to do this.

you need a single breaker breaker or breaker/switch box 20 amp
Some 12 ga wire. You may need a junction box a 20 amp inlet and outlet

Unhook existing 12ga line to roof from breaker box and run to new breaker box (NOTE if necessary go to a junttion box and extend to net breaker box
12 volt line from new breaker box (inlet side) to 20 amp inlet or plug (plug in a basement compartment or inlet mounted in a box in same

Eventually you will run 12 (or 10) ga to a pigtail coming out of the same box you mount the inlet in but that comes later..

now run a 12 ga or heavier cord to your shore 20 amp outlet

When you are done.. If on a 50 amp site. simply plug the Pigtail outlet onto the Inlet and Enjoy... If on a 30. pull plug off inlet and use 12ga cord to 20 amp outlet.

Yes, if you know how to do it is easy. But by you asking, I would asume you don't know. It becomes a difficult proposition right there. The AC normally is wired directly from the electrical box from a 20 amp breaker. You can feed it from there. Also, there is a junction box inside the AC unit. you can feed it there.
There is nothing difficult unless you have 2 AC units with a power management system.
Still, this is not like fixing the light in your car. 110V at 15 amps will cause a lot of damage and easily kill you if you don't know what you are doing.

Just There wrote:
Please except this as friendly concern: Yes it can be done. However, if you do not know how, are you sure you are the right person to correct the whole “mess” of your RV electrical?

X2

Pretty easy actually. Cut the wire, run a new wire of the proper type and gauge for the length needed, put a 30 amp / 120 volt plug on the end, and plug it into a 30 amp / 120 volt receptacle. Hopefully the thermostat is still in working order. This assumes you know all how to wire the 30 amp plug, which is basically the same as a 15 amp with different shaped prongs; and know the difference between a 120 volt receptacle and a 240 volt receptacle.

Sure. Just keep in mind you may still need 12 volt power to run the controls.

The simple answer to your question is yes you can. But why bypass the system?

Why not consider just pulling the fuses and circuit breakers to everything but the air conditioning feed. That way you can inspect and/or trouble shoot without fear of electrocution and once you are sure the circuit you are working on is working properly, you can reconnect it to the system.

You would also need to disconnect the cables to the negative terminals of the chassis and house batteries.

Of course not knowing anything about your system, it is hard to determine how many CBs there are and how many house fuse panels there are, therefore, finite instructions are impossible to offer. Just remember, it isn't rocket science, it just looks that way at first.

time2roll wrote:
Sure. Just keep in mind you may still need 12 volt power to run the controls.

I want to reiterate this point. If your air conditioner has a wall-mount thermostat (and, for all I know, possibly also if it has controls mounted on the unit itself), it won't work without 12V power for the controls. You could of course use some other 12V power supply of suitable specification with a bit of temporary rewiring; it doesn't necessarily need to be the main RV 12V system.

Just There wrote:
Please except this as friendly concern: Yes it can be done. However, if you do not know how, are you sure you are the right person to correct the whole “mess” of your RV electrical?

Good point. Personally I will try to help anybody work on 12V systems on line or over the phone. A mistake might cause a burn, maybe a short-term fire. But when it comes to 120V if I know somebody, and their work habits, I might try to point him in a direction. But, over the net, a stranger that I know nothing about their skill or tool kit, I close my keyboard.

Pictures will help. If your setup is like mine I would remove the A/C filter and locate the junction box. Remove the jb cover and snap a pic.


If you have a wall thermostat carefully remove whatever cover or screws it takes to expose those wires and snap another pic.

If you plan to power the A/C with an extension cord then all you will need is a Male adapter from home depot with 3 wires coming off the back. Attach those to the A/C junction box where you removed the existing wires, which might be yellow romex.

Make sure to check voltage if using a long extension cord. Of course use the thickest and shortest cord possible. If you get the A/C running probe the voltage where you connected your adapter to the A/C jb. I think most guys say if its below 110v you should buy a thicker and/or shorter extension cord.

Use a battery and some wire to temporarily power your thermostat.