Calling on Solar Techies

1L243 wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
I expect the hydrometer will tell you why there is such a big voltage drop running high amp appliances. Since you wiring is good, that leaves the batts.

I was able to do the battery Hydrometer test today. I was only able to check three of the 12 volt deep cycle batteries with the Hydrometer. The battery that came with the trailer was a sealed lead acid. I was able to test it for voltage and it was fine. I added the 3 extra 12 volt deep cycle batteries two weeks after purchasing the trailer. The batteries have the same rated Ah's

The voltage on the meter at the time of the test was 12.80. The three deep cycle batteries I was able to test. Two, were in the green at 1275. The remaining battery was in the green at 1275 except for two cells which were in the white (fair) at 1250.

On a side note.
I do have a disconnect switch wired into the Inverter between the Inverter and the ANL fuse. Could the switch be a limiting factor? I could bypass it and go straight to the ANL fuse from the Inverter?

Switches can have a high resistance--you can measure across the closed switch when amps are flowing through it to see if has excessive R. IMO there is no value in a switch on the inverter. The switch might "leak" more than any inverter draw with the inverter off.

That one battery might be equalized back into some kind of shape, but maybe not. You could pull it and try three good ones to see what your voltage drop is when running the MW. IIRC the plan was to get through this summer and get new batts in the Fall, so maybe three good ones will be enough for now--if they will let you do some inverter work.

With the inverter on as much as it will do, feel all the wiring connections for hot spots --loose connections--
Do the ANL fuses have holders? Fuse holders are notorious for high R--check connections there.