Camper Backwashing Power Into Vehicle
We just bought our first camper ever, and an issue popped up that I'm hoping you all can shed some light on (Google failed me). We bought a pull behind camper at a Camping World location and had th...
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My GM vehicle came with "factory tow package" yet was half-arced crimp spliced together from the rear light wiring to feed 4 of the 7 wires into the 7-pin. Don't rely on that, it could have been the dealer that "factory" installed the trailer wiring.
Your Jeep wire is connected to the ignition side of things, no doubt.
You need to re-do this for sure.
You are not getting very good current flow to the trailer.
The wire should come from the alternator and go as directly to the 7-pin plug as possible with a heavy gauge wire, one wire, since you will have ground from the chassis.
Jeep people have it come off the ignition side so that when key is off then you will not run down your vehicle battery.
I suggest using a relay switch and wiring straight off the alternator (or battery, or starter 12v+ post) yourself.
The relay can be connected to the ignition (maybe that same radio wire/ same wire that is feeding the 7-pin charge wire currently).
If too advanced then have a mechanic do it.
Honestly, I do not know exactly how a "factory" wiring would look. I have always used the relay method so I can control it via switch. With solar I never really need to charge from the TV anyway.
edit: relay about $7-$14 and a switch $2-3, a relay harness maybe around $10, but you dont have to have one.
I bought a5 pack like this https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=relay+harness&qid=1558995567&s=gateway&sr=8-3 and have multiple trailer things on it
including:
trailer 12 volt Heavy Duty Relay which powers trailer charging, reverse lights and running lights.
Feeding off the relay are:
trailer charge
trailer reverse light
trailer running lights
note, brake light is left alone.
By having a separate power source for the trailer there is no chance to trip or blow a fuse on the TV or burn out wiring from too many lights on a trailer…
and for more fun:
truck reverse light
truck DRL
Your Jeep wire is connected to the ignition side of things, no doubt.
You need to re-do this for sure.
You are not getting very good current flow to the trailer.
The wire should come from the alternator and go as directly to the 7-pin plug as possible with a heavy gauge wire, one wire, since you will have ground from the chassis.
Jeep people have it come off the ignition side so that when key is off then you will not run down your vehicle battery.
I suggest using a relay switch and wiring straight off the alternator (or battery, or starter 12v+ post) yourself.
The relay can be connected to the ignition (maybe that same radio wire/ same wire that is feeding the 7-pin charge wire currently).
If too advanced then have a mechanic do it.
Honestly, I do not know exactly how a "factory" wiring would look. I have always used the relay method so I can control it via switch. With solar I never really need to charge from the TV anyway.
edit: relay about $7-$14 and a switch $2-3, a relay harness maybe around $10, but you dont have to have one.
I bought a5 pack like this https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=relay+harness&qid=1558995567&s=gateway&sr=8-3 and have multiple trailer things on it
including:
trailer 12 volt Heavy Duty Relay which powers trailer charging, reverse lights and running lights.
Feeding off the relay are:
trailer charge
trailer reverse light
trailer running lights
note, brake light is left alone.
By having a separate power source for the trailer there is no chance to trip or blow a fuse on the TV or burn out wiring from too many lights on a trailer…
and for more fun:
truck reverse light
truck DRL
