Can I move a GFCI receptacle?

No reset button means no gfci... as others have said. And only one gfci per circuit... or they simply won't work. No way, no how, does the OP's rig have more than one gfci per circuit... impossible.

And even though it would be nice to have a gfci outlet above the kitchen counter, i.e; near the sink, it would render split wiring the receptacle impossible. By split wiring, I mean having it so you can plug two appliances (say, toaster and kettle) into the same receptacle without blowing the breaker. There are tabs on a regular receptacle that must be broken off, so each of the two halves of the receptacle work independently, i.e; on their own 15a breaker. 3 wire is used... red (hot), black (hot), and white (neutral). At the panel, either two separate 15a breakers are used, or a slim line double breaker that only takes up one spot.

OP, test ALL receptacles for power, then test the gfci by pushing the test button to see which receptacles are effected... downstream. Simply swap out the gfci with one of those effected receptacles... keeping in mind location of a possible ground fault event. And remember to turn off ALL power in the rig... if we don't hear back from you, we'll assume you didn't. :)

Another type of fault protection is arc fault... which will trip if someone throws say a pile of wet towels or a wet bathing suit up against a receptacle.

joebedford wrote:
AFAIK a GFCI receptacle works equally well in any location on the circuit i.e. it DOESN'T have to be first in the circuit.

The GFCI receptacle itself will work fine, but to protect other receptacles, they must be wired downstream of it.

It's difficult to know just how your rig is setup and mfgs tend to do whatever. My rig for example has one GFCI and 18 downstream outlets - that is not a typo.

My S&B house has 8 outlets (garage and outside) on one GFCI with 270' of 14ga wire and a 15A CB. It meets code. When I plugged my saw into the last outlet and it had no sawing power I found how how the circuit was wired.

martipr wrote:
I assume the outlet behind the TV is a GFCI because it is on the wall behind the shower so I don't want to put a standard outlet there.

Why assume? Buy a $10 household tester with GFCI test button and find out what outlets are on the circuit.

The GFCI is a safety protection device. However moving it from the TV outlet to the next downstream outlet would be my choice if a panel CB/GFCI is not available. The main outlets to be protected are any near water so I would not be overly concerned with not protecting the TV even though it's behind the shower.

Another option would be to run a new wire from the CB panel to a new GFCI outlet somewhere that's easy to reset and then connect the load side to the TV outlet replacing that GFCI with a regular outlet.

AFAIK a GFCI receptacle works equally well in any location on the circuit i.e. it DOESN'T have to be first in the circuit.

martipr wrote:
My TT has 4 GFCI outlets only one of which has a reset button.

If it doesn't have a reset button, it isn't a GFCI outlet. It may be a square face, but it still isn't a GFCI outlet.

The 3 outlets without the reset button are probably protected by the single outlet with the reset button.

martipr wrote:
Thanks to everyone for the replies. However all I want to do is swap the outlets, nor rebuild the AC system. If it can't be done that simply then I will just live with the inconvenience of the reset being hidden behind the TV

Is the TV set receptacle causing the tripping or some other (i.e. outside) receptacle doing it?

My suggestion was to leave the existing one behind the TV, but rewire so that the downstream receptacles are NOT connected to the "load" terminals, THEN adding another GFCI on the next one in line. This way all receptacles are protected but if the nuisance trips are caused by anything but the TV receptacle, it's easy to reset. No new boxes or Romex required, just one new GFCI receptacle.

My gues is there is one GFCI outlet and the others downstream are just outlets with a rectangle face instead of normal outlets.

martipr wrote:
My TT has 4 GFCI outlets only one of which has a reset button.

Ok, we have a terminology problem. You have ONE GFCI outlet and 3 others which are protected by it downstream. If you put this GFCI in place of one of the other protected outlets, then the current outlet behind the TV will NOT be protected and only those outlets downstream of it's new location will be protected (assuming you wire it in correctly).

What you want to do is not difficult, but if you are not comfortable or familiar with 120VAC wiring, I would recommend you pass on doing this. If you don't wire it in properly, you can leave numerous outlets which are now protected without protection.

But if you want to try it, I'd recommend relocating the current GFCI to as convenient of a place as possible near it's current location. Then install a traditional outlet in the current GFCI location. This new outlet and the original protected outlets should all be downstream of the new GFCI location.

Good Luck,

~Rick

Thanks to everyone for the replies. However all I want to do is swap the outlets, nor rebuild the AC system. If it can't be done that simply then I will just live with the inconvenience of the reset being hidden behind the TV