Caulking & Spray Foam
he everyone! two questions here, fully rebuilding a '79 Ford Class C (Coachmen). anyway; there is an absolutely ridiculous amount of caulking on both sides of every metal outside panel. I have ma...
Forum Discussion
I remove silicone with 3M caulk remover. I put it on with a brush and let it sit, overnight, under Saran Wrap.
For stubborn, dried acrylic or very sticky butyl and urethane caulks, I remove them mechanically. I use anything from a putty knife to a 4" grinder with fine wire cup wheel. The 4" grinder and wheel is so far superior to a drill and wire wheel that there is no comparison.
I contemplated spray foam walls but there are issues with spray foam and a thin frame that has aluminum siding attached. The heat and movement will mean possible foam shrinkage. I decided a 1" thickness of fiberglass batt compressed against the siding and a 1" foam board, cut to friction fit wall studs and ceiling rafters was a cheaper and possibly better insulation schedule than spray foam. YMMV. Cutting all the foam board in a 22' trailer is an intensive project. The insulation took me two weeks to complete.
For stubborn, dried acrylic or very sticky butyl and urethane caulks, I remove them mechanically. I use anything from a putty knife to a 4" grinder with fine wire cup wheel. The 4" grinder and wheel is so far superior to a drill and wire wheel that there is no comparison.
I contemplated spray foam walls but there are issues with spray foam and a thin frame that has aluminum siding attached. The heat and movement will mean possible foam shrinkage. I decided a 1" thickness of fiberglass batt compressed against the siding and a 1" foam board, cut to friction fit wall studs and ceiling rafters was a cheaper and possibly better insulation schedule than spray foam. YMMV. Cutting all the foam board in a 22' trailer is an intensive project. The insulation took me two weeks to complete.
