CFL bulbs

There are two types of timers.

One type is not independently powered and requires a constant small trickle of electricity through the lamps in order to maintain the timer.

The second type of timer is independently powered and does not keep the lamps in the circuit when off.

I would guess you have the first type of timer which is not recommended with fluorescent lamps.

Dave H M wrote:
I would check the socket using a volt/ohm meter for current just for the hey of it.

I'll do that as soon as we we get back from a two day trip. Staying in a motel, by the way.LOL

ChopperBill wrote:
Well, went out and replaced the one that was flickering and the one that wasn't flickering started flickering. Replaced the other one that started flickering. And the one prior I replaced was flickering. Went around and tighten them all a quarter turn they all stopped flickering. Spooks, I'm afraid to go back and check!

My 30 year old kitchen CFLs started doing the same thing and I played the game of replacing tubes, ballasts and finally the entire setup with LEDs.

CFLs age and when they do they typically become more temperature sensitive and start to flicker. The ballast in the assembly may be going out as well. And of course there's always the problem of poor contacts, especially when used outdoors.

There are benefits to replacing the CFLs with LEDs, especially when used in outdoor areas. LEDs don't emit the wavelength of light that attracts bugs that the CFLs do, so with LEDs you'll find a lot fewer of them buzzing the lights. You can even use brighter LEDs (higher K values) without the fear of bugs.

LEDs do tend to be a little dimmer than the equivalent incandescent bulbs, but I think this is mainly because they are warmer, i.e. lower on the Kelvin scale. From what I've seen a 60w equivalent LED that's about 3200K appears to be dimmer than an incandescent 60w, but a 4000K is about the same.

I also replaced my outside porch lights with LEDs on a daylight sensor. After a year or so I noticed they weren't coming on as early as they used to and it turned out the sensor had gone bad.

I really like the spiral bulbs in the new DAYLIGHT color. I don't like warm white bulbs. period

I would check the socket using a volt/ohm meter for current just for the hey of it.

SCVJeff wrote:
Which side is ground on a AC device?

OK, neutral if you prefer.
It's the white wire......which eventually becomes a true ground at the transmission line connection.

The problem with LED's is they are very Generous with the "Equvalant to" Ratings

I see LED lamps with 700 lumens of output sold as Equal to 1,000 Lumen incasendants.. They are not, they are 30% Dimmer.

CFLs are more closely rated.

I got rid of all of my CFL'S last year. LED bulbs have improved dramatically by getting the right light in the right place (reliably).

Horizon170 wrote:
What is the cost of a 60 watt equivalent for the CFL vs LED. Honestly I have not seen any 120 volt LED's. Maybe I need to upgrade my Cave. LOL
Thanks, Marvin

SERIOUSLY ?
So you haven't been to a Lowes or Home Depot in many years I assume?

HD currently has CREE 60W warm white LED's for less than $5. Less in packs of 4

And they're fully dimmable

ChopperBill wrote:
Well, went out and replaced the one that was flickering and the one that wasn't flickering started flickering. Replaced the other one that started flickering. And the one prior I replaced was flickering. Went around and tighten them all a quarter turn they all stopped flickering. Spooks, I'm afraid to go back and check!

Corrosion or water