Charge Batteries by Idling Tow Vehicle?

Just a "ping" for anyone reading this slightly stale Thread: The "TV pretends to be a high-powered Solar panel scheme" has been implemented by at least one other person, and it delivers *3-STAGE CONTROLLED CHARGING, WITH BOOST* into his T105's - without overcharging, at a rate of up to 20A (~300W).

At idle speed in the TV. And his TV is a mere Chevy Traverse, standard alternator.

And don't let anyone mess with your charging system! No one!

If somebody stamps their feet impatiently yo mess around under your hood I have a simple way to discourage it:

Ask them:

"Explain to me the function of the "C" voltage regulator connection..."

"I'm waiting..."

(answer) It's a -field report- signal from the regulator to the main computer. Fool with the circuit and it -will- trigger a fault-code check engine light condition that makes the car to start and run crummy, until you pay 100 dollars to have the new car dealer reset the computer. The dealer will snap both your arms trying to convince you to go further "and find the problem". Then they employ the magic WARRANTY word.

Don't tamper.

Dave H M wrote:
You can also get a little gizmo that plugs in the OBD outlet that will high idle the engine for you. Mine was adjustable and I have it set for 900 rpm.

The Alternator's output is not linear with RPMs. It's largely controlled by the "Sense" circuit, which causes the Alternator controller to move semi-fixed magnets (surrounding the spinning armature) to create a larger or smaller electrical field.

You can also get a little gizmo that plugs in the OBD outlet that will high idle the engine for you. Mine was adjustable and I havwe it set for 900 rpm.

I also like to use it on summer days when I run into the store and have the labs in the truck under the air conditioner. Extra set of keys takes care of the door locking problems.

Obvious thing needs a proof? :)

It ALWAYS tapers. This is the nature of acid battery. Acceptance rate drops after you've got over 80-85%. Generator-schmugerator.

2oldman wrote:

Flatfive wrote:
What is WyoTraveler talking about: " a diode and 10 ft of wire"?

I have no idea.

It's actually a very useful trick, a cheap way to force the Tow Vehicle into a "Bulk Charge" Voltage. The charge system in the Tow Vehicle uses a Voltage "Sense" wire to test whether the battery is "fully charged". If you cut this wire and insert a ceramic diode, the diode will cause the voltage reading to be seen at about .5V less than the correct value.

This will have the effect of raising the Alternator Voltage (and current), because the Voltage under the hood must be raised to "charge the battery". Without such a trick, the Tow Vehicle will run at a "float mode" Voltage, and it will take forever to charge the Trailer batteries. With the reading .5v lower, the true Voltage will be raised, running at or near a "bulk charge mode" value.

The only problem: You need to remove the resistor when you're finished, or else you will cook the Truck/TV battery to death pretty quickly.

My way is vastly better, but uses a $$ Solar Controller to avoid damaging batteries. Just "search" on my name, you'll find the Thread. ;)

One could get smacked by a speeding Taxi on Wall Street. Or a careless KW in México. Serengeti, survival of the fittest and all that...

smkettner wrote:
MEX, that hairpin alternator picture made me think of the windings in the Chevrolet Bolt electric motor.

Of course, that could be a fine generator too, if driven, instead of driving. Makes me wonder what the motor in my e-Golf and the wiring on it looks like now.