Charger/converter not charging batteries/how to test?

If you water pump works when directly applying DC then chances are you either have a defective switch or monoplex controller/relay needs replacing - mine burned out when when the converter went bonkers. Edit: Also if you converter is working but your batteries aren't charging you might look for a blown fuse or auto-reset circuit breaker usually located near batteries.

OP said,

"It will allow interior lights IF I'm plugged in to 120v power. I still have some 12v issues because although my water pump will run when I connect a 12v source directly to it, it won't come on otherwise."

Is the interior lighting 120v or 12v?

Is there a fuse/cb in the pump circuit?

Have you checked for a self reseting fuse or any type of fuse between your battery and converter? Mine failed and I was getting the exact same symptom.

The 950 series is s switch type fixed voltage charger. The 955 was a stand-alone charger. Is yours integrated with an AC or DC fuse or switch panel?

The converter portion appears to be working, because you have12V power when plugged in, however, if the charger portion is not working the symptoms will be the same.

If your model number is 63XX there is a relay in the converter output that selects whether the output goes to the distribution panel (and the battery charger), or allows the battery to feed the distribution panel when no 120vac is present (not plugged in).

Common failures are the mentioned relay, tripped CB, bad batteries or connections.

If you need schematics, just let me know.

The fact that you have 12V only when plugged in means that the converter is working. There are certainly better converters but you need to find the real problem first.

Court,

Even though your old Magnetek perhaps should be replaced by a more modern converter model if you can afford it, if you measure it's voltage and find out that it's still putting out around 13.6 volts then probably your Pace Arrow's battery(ies) should be replaced, first. After all, if your Magnetek is still functioning, it looks like you have gotten along with as it is for years.

For what it's worth, we have the "modern" version of your Magnetek converter - a Parallax 7345 converter - that puts out around 13.8 volts and have had the same batteries in our motorhome taken care of by this converter (and the main engine alternator when traveling) for over eight (8) years. The new multi-stage converters many folks are upgrading to in their RVs are mainly to charge batteries faster for when not on hookups during dry camping and for better treatment of their batteries if/when their motorhomes are left hooked up for long periods during storage of their RVs.

No need to test. The converter should be updated regardless of function.

The only question is what replacement to get.

I would also check your house batteries. It sounds like they may be bad.
They should be at least 12.6 volts.

Make sure the new converter can be made to hold voltage at the bulk setting during abs; preferably in the 14.4-14.8v range. Most converters drop their voltage to 13.6v "normal", once this setpoint voltage has been reached; which is usually in the battery's 75-85% soc range; still a long ways from full. This results in less than 100% soc, overall, as well as lower sg and resting (ocv) readings... even though the converter may say the battery is full, it is not.