Charging problems

I am having issues with the electrical system which I am not too familiar with and after reading some of the questions on this website, I have learned a lot about the elec. System, and I am hoping I can get help here figuring out my problem. I own a 26 ft. 2005 Tioga on a Chevy chassis, and in 2011 the batteries were going bad (from lack of maintenance) so I bought 2 24DC’s from Walmart. Being unfamiliar with the batteries in the RV, I thought they were the same type so I hooked them up in series, after a few sparks I realized that originally it had came with 2 6 volt batteries instead of 2 12’s so I hooked them up in parallel and all was good (except for my grey and black water indicator lights on my monitor didn’t work anymore and a replaced GFI in the bathroom). After 3 years the 2 12’s started failing, they would only hold a charge for about a day, and then I would need to run the engine for a few hours to charge them, (that is when I noticed the generator was not charging them) so I bought 2 Interstate 6 volt GC2’s with 232 Ah, and after I installed and connected them in series they had an initial voltage of 12.28. The problem I am having now is the only time I get a charging voltage is when the vehicle engine is running, I checked the output on my WF 8845 converter with shore power and the batteries disconnected and it was zero. I checked it with batteries connected and it was 12.28. So I started the Onan 4000 gen. and plugged the shore cord into the RV’s storage bay outlet and the batteries still read 12.28, so I started the engine and after about 10 minutes I checked the batteries and they were at 13.34. During all this I noticed the fan on the converter never started but I don’t think I ran it long enough to get hot just warmer. I intend to upgrade the converter to a PD9260 as soon as I can figure out the charging issue. Besides batteries and the 1 GFI I have not had any other issues. So I am wondering if another component has failed like a transfer switch, besides the switches for the aux. batteries and gen. start on the wall monitor, there are a couple of toggle switches on the dash, one to start the generator the other to boost the chassis battery. I am not familiar with the components in my battery box (they look like relays and solenoids) or if there is any located anywhere else. Hope there is enough information for someone to help me. Thanks in advance.

16 Replies

NinerBikes
Explorer
Jun 26, 2014
Any interest in a brand new PD 9245? Private Message me, it has the pendant also, makes it capable of bulk charging quickly with the push of a button.

Perfect for a set of golf cart batteries and getting them charged up quickly with a little Honda Eu1000i if off the grid.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jun 26, 2014
smkettner wrote:
Remove the WFCO and bench test. 120v in, 13.6 volts out. Even if it tests good get the 9260 and put it in.

I will second that recommendation. 9260 (well 9200 series) is among the finest Converters made (A fairly large group) it is a 3-stage PLUS converter with a very good reputation and is programmed for the batteries you have.

The WFCO is made in China with the standard CHINS quality reputation (Very short Mean Time Between Failure) and I really think you will like the American product better.
abochoa
Explorer
Jun 25, 2014
Removed converter and bench checked... no output voltage. ordered PD9260, should be here tomorrow. hopefully it will fix my problem, thanks for all the help and advice.

Alan
Harvey51
Explorer
Jun 25, 2014
Battery isolator switch and relay could prevent the converter output from reaching the battery.
wwest
Explorer
Jun 25, 2014
24 volts with "infinite" current capability can do a LOT of damage when connected to a 12 volt system in just a few milliseconds.
mena661
Explorer
Jun 25, 2014
I'd just leave the WFCO in place, disconnected, and buy a Black and Decker VEC1093DBD portable charger with a separate Battery Tender float charger instead. Don't waste your money on crappy converters. They all suck IMO. Some just suck less.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 25, 2014
I am not against replacing the WFCO, but if it can be made to work, it would not be necessary. Becomes an optional upgrade. (But you don't have to go to a PD, despite the urgings of that one's fans! :) )
Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Jun 25, 2014
I will take a small issue with BFL. Yes, each brand of converter PD, IOTA, PowerMax, et cetera has its own fan club, but the only members of the WFCO fan club are builders that want a cheap product that will probably get them through warranty.

Pitch the WFCO. If you have somebody test it completely and it seems good, put long cables and tie on a handle and use it to charge lawnmower batteries.

Get a three or four stage charger and put it in per the included instructions and you will never regret the expense.

This is what I did regularly for the owners of expensive boats before the depression and I did learn a lot.

Matt
BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 25, 2014
The WFCO "reverse polarity" fuses are likely blown. Replace all even if just one is blown.

The new 6s at 12.28 are low from being on the shelf so long. "they need a good charging up to "full" and then do an "overcharge" on them to desulfate/destratify them from sitting so long undercharged. After that, take an hydrometer reading in all cells and note the number. That is your "baseline SG" you want to see in the future when you are going for a 100% SOC.

BTW, PD is not the only other converter in the world besides WFCOs. There is also PowerMax. Each brand has its own fan club. :)
beemerphile1
Explorer
Jun 25, 2014
Did you replace the fuses you probably melted when you connected the batteries wrong?