Chevy P30 Chassis 1973 brake rotor clearance.
I had to replace the front rotor on my '73 P30 Sportscoach RV. The local NAPA had no listing for '73 dual rear wheel P30, but they did have one for the '75 and the rotor matched all dimensions, excep...
Forum Discussion
By how much is it too thick? MEX suggested having it turned to get it true anyhow. There was discussion about what made it thicker, the two "platters" that have the braking surface, or the "honeycomb" in between the platters? If there's more "meat" in the platters (same honeycomb thickness as the one your're replacing) then cutting them down a little should turn out OK.
What about what I'll call "offset" where I mean how the rotor ends up inside the caliper gap? The offset I'm thinking of could measure from the bearing race to the center of the honeycomb.
I don't remember what the coach was, but somebody on this forum had to take a new rotor that otherwise fit but the Diameter was too big. Had the edge machined off of it, reducing diameter by a fraction of an inch. I don't remember if it was 1/8 or 1/4 or as much as 1/2 (inch) but everything else was OK and it worked after.
I hate to ask another question, but is the face of the braking surface wide enough (from edge to hub) for your pads?
You could of course machine the Pads down, but that wouldn't be my first choice. For no other reason, all of a sudden you need new pads during a trip. You don't want to be crouched on a concrete sidewalk trying to work'em down.
If you weren't able to get the exact replacement rotor, then I'd say take your worn one and new one to an automotive machine shop and ask if they can make the New the same as Old started out.
I also suppose the later model chassis had a different caliper, but trying to find and install that could be another can of worms.
What about what I'll call "offset" where I mean how the rotor ends up inside the caliper gap? The offset I'm thinking of could measure from the bearing race to the center of the honeycomb.
I don't remember what the coach was, but somebody on this forum had to take a new rotor that otherwise fit but the Diameter was too big. Had the edge machined off of it, reducing diameter by a fraction of an inch. I don't remember if it was 1/8 or 1/4 or as much as 1/2 (inch) but everything else was OK and it worked after.
I hate to ask another question, but is the face of the braking surface wide enough (from edge to hub) for your pads?
You could of course machine the Pads down, but that wouldn't be my first choice. For no other reason, all of a sudden you need new pads during a trip. You don't want to be crouched on a concrete sidewalk trying to work'em down.
If you weren't able to get the exact replacement rotor, then I'd say take your worn one and new one to an automotive machine shop and ask if they can make the New the same as Old started out.
I also suppose the later model chassis had a different caliper, but trying to find and install that could be another can of worms.
