I've got some very large storage doors on the basement of the 5er with the standard-issue CH751 locks. The locks are finicky, and the quart-turn stops are all broken on the latches so they spin around and around, leaving you to guess when the tabs are actually engaged to the frame and holding the door closed.I upgraded to the round 7-pin tumbler locks on the previous TT and they were a little better but don't think I will go that way again. These are typical towable 3/4" thick storage doors, not the heavier Class A doors that use slam latches. Several of the doors are so big that they have 3 latches, 2 thumb turns with a locking latch in the middle.Any suggestions for "upgraded" latches?

Hope there are some good answers to this. Having same issues with my older RVs. Problem now is they have tried to make different keys in sets so everyone with an RV can't open your RV compartments. But then you have some locks with one key number and some with another so you need more keys on your key ring.Trouble is the sets of locks you get in a bag have keys made of some cheap metal that twists with the slightest turning strain, and the ends break off in the locks, and the keys get stuck in the locks so you can't pull the key out. It is all very frustrating.The compartment doors are so thin but not all the same so you have to get the right length to fit. As noted in the OP, the catch to keep it in place is not very good. The screw holding the latch tab won't stay tight either.Needs a dedicated spray can of penetrating oil just to keep all the locks working each trip. Phooey! So I'm with the OP hoping for the correct answer.Here are some, no idea which are any good.https://www.amazon.com/rv-compartment-locks/s?k=rv+compartment+locks

I hope we are talking about the same latches. I find I have to disassemble mine every couple of years, clean and regrease the ball bearing for smooth operation. The stops are solid leading me to believe your entire lock may be rotating. I would check to see that the outer bezel isn't moving.My trailer came with combination locks on some of the hatch doors and I would advise against them. I have to get the readers out to see the numbers and my eyes are pretty good. Plus, they have a large serrated handle perfect for Channellocks.

I have replaced all of mine on my 2006 Tioga with These from RV locks&More,they can all be keyed alike with heavy duty keys so I only have one key for everything. Just pick the size and how many you want. I also like that they have a cover on the key slot that moves when you insert the key,thus keeping all grime out.

Cam locks like this?Just go to your local Home Depot or Lowes and buy standard off the shelf replacement generic cabinet door cam locks.Search through their stock and pick out the locks which have the same key number. Cheap and effective.Unless you are hiding valuables like gold, silver or diamonds there is no need for a higher security round lock.Keep in mind, most of these locks (including the round key) the interior body is nothing more than zinc "IE pot metal" and what isn't pot metal is mild steel so they can be easily defeated with a screw driver or pry bar placed around the hatch..Since the inside body is pot metal, it tends to corrode easily making the pins or the lock barrel stick from weather exposure over time.To combat that, a light spritz of spray oil once and a while will reduce the effects of water intrusion. Typically on outdoor locks one would use a dry lubricant like graphite, I found on pot metal locks dry lubricants do not work. My "go to" is a product called TriFlow which is a oil mixed with Teflon..Spray it right into the key hole and insert key and rotate a few times to spread the oil.Yes, with the initial spray your key will have some oil on it, you simply wipe off the excess oil off the key and after a few times the key will no longer get oily.

The problem is that if they are cam locks. Yes any locksmith or big home improvement or hardwar can likely sell you replacements.If they are things like "Tri-mark" latch systems that might not work well. Oh the CH-751... I was talking to a woman about water issues.. She told me she did NOT have a gravity fill port for her fresh water tank.I took out MY Ch-751.. Opened the door and showed it to her.

Compartment latches and locks | Good Sam Community

12 Replies

Durb
Explorer
Apr 04, 2022
I hope we are talking about the same latches. I find I have to disassemble mine every couple of years, clean and regrease the ball bearing for smooth operation. The stops are solid leading me to believe your entire lock may be rotating. I would check to see that the outer bezel isn't moving.

My trailer came with combination locks on some of the hatch doors and I would advise against them. I have to get the readers out to see the numbers and my eyes are pretty good. Plus, they have a large serrated handle perfect for Channellocks.
BFL13
Explorer II
Apr 04, 2022
Hope there are some good answers to this. Having same issues with my older RVs. Problem now is they have tried to make different keys in sets so everyone with an RV can't open your RV compartments. But then you have some locks with one key number and some with another so you need more keys on your key ring.

Trouble is the sets of locks you get in a bag have keys made of some cheap metal that twists with the slightest turning strain, and the ends break off in the locks, and the keys get stuck in the locks so you can't pull the key out. It is all very frustrating.

The compartment doors are so thin but not all the same so you have to get the right length to fit. As noted in the OP, the catch to keep it in place is not very good. The screw holding the latch tab won't stay tight either.

Needs a dedicated spray can of penetrating oil just to keep all the locks working each trip. Phooey! So I'm with the OP hoping for the correct answer.

Here are some, no idea which are any good.

https://www.amazon.com/rv-compartment-locks/s?k=rv+compartment+locks

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Compartment latches and locks

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