Is it possible to connect the output from my charge controller to converter instead of direct to the batteries? I have the PD 9100 series that has two sets of pos and neg terminals on it.

I'm going to retract my 'yes' after seeing that you said you were using the other terminals. Now I'm not so sure.I'd not hesitate to connect to the existing wiring however.

Yes you can connect the output of your solar controller to the output of the converter, so they are in parallel on the battery.EDIT per above-- Be sure the second set of terminals is connected to the first set or else just use one set of converter output terminals for both controller and converter

Thanks for the help. Not to be cheap but I'm trying to keep wire runs to a minimum. I was going to connect the solar controller output to the same terminals as the output from the converter to the batteries just in case. I just wasn't sure if running them in parallel was ok or not. When my RV is parked at home I have it plugged into the house and was wondering if it would matter that both the solar and the convereter were providing power. I'm assuming that the solar controller would see the voltage from the converter and not push additional power to the battieries.

With both on, the battery voltage will rise to the higher voltage of the two chargers, which leaves the other charger idle. Say the converter is at 13.6v so it is there all night, then solar comes on during the day and it is set to 14.3v. Solar will take over and raise the battery above 13.6 to 14.3 then quit at dusk, when better voltage will fall back to 13.6 again.If you want to keep a steady Float voltage of 13.6 then just turn off the solar when at home and plugged in.EDIT: to turn off the solar, put your on /off switch on the array side of the controller on one of the wires. The sequence for connected a controller is battery first then array. So the controller stays on battery, but the array is disconnected and connected by the switch.

Hi,My converter has three outputs, each on a separate circuit. So if you put 14 volts from the solar into output #2, while output #1 has the wire going to the battery, then no power would get from output #2 to the battery output wired to terminal#1. The ground side will not matter, the grounds are all connected together, however my outputs are separated by diodes coming off of the converter output triacs. So my suggestion is to loosen the output of your converter and place the solar output wires inside the same terminals - if there is space. Or if there is not enough space for a additional large wire, check to see if there is a bond between the connections, or else put in one to bond the 2 positive and another to bond the grounds together.Fred.

Connecting solar panels to Converter | Good Sam Community

pianotuna
Nomad III
Dec 16, 2013
Hi,

I prefer to use a buss bar instead of having several connections on the battery connector.
sdmotor
Explorer
Dec 17, 2013
Everything is connected and working as it should. The only odd thing I noticed is that I cant put the converter into the lowest setting using the button on the remote, I only get med or high. My guess is because the solar controllers float setting is higher than the float setting on the converter. I think the PD9100 series is 13.2.or 3 and the solar controller is 13.6. Maybe at night when the panels aren't producing it might drop to there. Other than that it seems to be working as intended. I also noticed that when I unplug the converter and or shut the main off the remote light still flashes. I measured the amps coming in and got 10.5 which seems right given the flat mounting and the winter sun I'm getting.

Thanks again for the input!
Simplygib
Explorer
Dec 19, 2013
How much voltage drop is there between the controller and the batteries? That's the question that needs to be answered.

You should only wire the controller to the converter if voltage drop to the batteries would be within acceptable limits. So you need to find out exactly what size those wires are and how long the run is, and put those numbers in a voltage drop calculator. Your batteries will charge either way, but if voltage drop is too high they won't charge fully. Besides losing battery capacity you will also lose battery life, unless you periodically use some other method to get the batteries fully charged.

If your controller allows you to bump up set point voltage then that could compensate for too much voltage drop, but many controllers do not allow that adjustment.

So it makes sense to minimize voltage drop. You've got to run the numbers or you just won't know how bad it is (or isn't). Run the numbers, then decide based on the outcome whether or not you want to leave it that way.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Dec 19, 2013
Quote:

All battery charge sources (charge controller, converter, alternator) should all terminate at the battery with separate cables
-----------------------------------------------------------

I wonder why none of the RV MFGs know that.
mena661
Explorer
Dec 19, 2013
RJsfishin wrote:
I wonder why none of the RV MFGs know that.
They know, it's just cheaper to use less wiring.

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