Forum Discussion

rjsurfer's avatar
rjsurfer
Explorer
Apr 27, 2017

Connection issue with transfer switch

On my last few trips I noticed the AC voltage in the camper was starting to drop compared to the pedestal voltage. After a little bit of searching sure enough some connnections on the transfer switch were burnt and scortched.

The main offfender was the output side going into the panel.

Once the wires are burnt trying to clean up the ends is a waste of time so I'll replace the 10/3 cable.

My question is, how do I keep this from happening again? Those barrel connection strips with the set screw holding the stranded wire always seem to loosen and create that over heating condition !

Do in use crimped ferrules, solder the tips of the wires or just twist the ends tight and hope for the best? By the way, were do you get those large ferrules for 10 gauge stranded?

Ron W.

7 Replies

  • RoyB wrote:
    Are you talking about 120VAC wiring or 12VDC wiring... The pedestal is 120VAC only... The transfer switch is generally for 120VAC between the Shore power and on-board Generator or Power Inverter.

    You mentioned the pedestal voltage and your comments seems to be about 120VAC connections. Where are you finding these burned lug connections...

    The 120VAC connections by code must inside enclosed boxes.

    The burned LUG cable connections has led some of us (Myself included) to start thinking about Battery 12VDC issues...

    The batteries and the converter/charger on your trailer only produce the 12VDC side...

    The 12VDC connections from your 12V SYSTEM (Batteries and/or Converter/Charger unit) can be out in the open much like on battery terminals or open terminal strip lug connections... The 12VDC connections will not have anything to do with with your lower AC VOLTAGE readings at various places on your trailer.

    Roy Ken


    Roy,

    Re-READ thread Title and 1st paragraph.
  • This is the 110v side of things... DC side of things were fine, I went over the entire wiring panel.

    And yes, the screws were loose. I'm certainly adding checking these screws as a part of my pre trip list.

    Good info so far thank you.

    Ron W.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    Are you talking about 120VAC wiring or 12VDC wiring... The pedestal is 120VAC only... The transfer switch is generally for 120VAC between the Shore power and on-board Generator or Power Inverter.

    You mentioned the pedestal voltage and your comments seems to be about 120VAC connections. Where are you finding these burned lug connections...

    The 120VAC connections by code must inside enclosed boxes.

    The burned LUG cable connections has led some of us (Myself included) to start thinking about Battery 12VDC issues...

    The batteries and the converter/charger on your trailer only produce the 12VDC side...

    The 12VDC connections from your 12V SYSTEM (Batteries and/or Converter/Charger unit) can be out in the open much like on battery terminals or open terminal strip lug connections... The 12VDC connections will not have anything to do with with your lower AC VOLTAGE readings at various places on your trailer.

    Roy Ken
  • Keep in mind that the rig bounces and vibrates down the road. All connections should be checked for the correct torque annually. All as in plugs, junction boxes, ATS, EMS, CB panel, gen, etc.
  • I don't know if this applies to a breaker panel, but instructions for Hubbell brand plugs and sockets say not to tin the wires. The advice from dougrainer is good.

    Edit: Found the following on Hubbell's web site:

    "Wire tinning, for the purpose of containing loose wire strands, is not a recommended practice for use with clamp/ screw terminations in wiring devices. The thermal properties of solder tend to allow for the redistribution of wire strands, particularly due the heating and cooling cycles common to wiring devices. This occurrence is commonly referred to as "cold-flow." In long-term usage, cold-flow could result in a runaway thermal condition progressing to excessive heat, arcing and/or fire."
  • The reason they burnt was the reason they are loose. When you tighten the Clamp screws, it is IMPORTANT to tighten as tight as you can get them, then wait 5 or 10 minutes. Go back and retighten. You will be surprised at how much more you can turn the screws that 2nd time. This gives the copper strands time to settle. When they are done originally, they seem tight. But after a few years of running at MAX or OVER the rating(30 or 50) amp(usually 30 amp), the heat build up from this causes the slightly loose wires to expand and shrink and when they get slightly loose that current draw then heats up and causes the melting and burns/melts. It is important to check your Main breaker Panel and Transfer switch wiring at least once after you purchase your unit. Tighten them one time and you will be OK. Doug
  • Have read in a Trojan brochure and heard here that you should solder battery lugs. So I'm thinking best practice is to solder all connectors.

    In the past I've crimped, then wicked solder in, then shrink wrapped.
    But you'll prolly want connectors without insulation or with removable insulation if you solder.

    For the right connectors, google, ebay and amazon have worked for me.