Converter / Charger question

Here's another discussion thread that relates to a battery charging problem similar to yours. The solution to that problem may work for you too:

http://forums.trailerlife.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29267987/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm

I did not see an actual converter there. The panels in the first photo look like separate AC/ and DC panels which suggests the converter is... Somewhere else

I agree with Drew, 13.5 Volt loois like a single stage converter typically 13.6 but I'll chalk that last 1/10 volt to meter error)

Too many possible things to list so I'll do the other list.

When you check battery levels.. EVERY THING OFF save the indicator panel.. No shore power, no lights, no fans, turn off the fridge, everything off for a true reading, and even then I'm not sure how accurate the panel is.

Loads will lower the reading
Shore power SHOULD increase it.

Oh boy I remember those days! Get rid of that single stage charger. Call Randy at BestConverter.com and he will set you up with a 3/4 stage charger direct replacement. Great prices too! While you're at it get a Trimetric Battery Monitor. Awesome stuff and good bye to all those battery headaches.

NJ6PACK wrote:
Yes.... I measured the voltage directly on the Battery (hooked up to TT) with my meter

Battery reading with shore pwr:
13.5 vdc

Battery reading with shore pwr disconnected:

11.2 vdc

The readings are from memory but it was definitely at 13vdc and 11vdc (with and without shore pwr) give or take a few tenths

Is there a heavy load on the system? Did somebody pull the breakaway pin?

What i always do to make sure the charger unit is working is to measure across the battery terminals first without being connected to shore power. The battery terminal readings will be 12.6-7VDC if battery is fully charged.

Then I connect up to shore power and make the reading again across the battery terminals and it should read 13.6VDC or higher if you have a smart mode converter/charger hooked up.

This tells me I have a working working converter/charger unit and the DC cables patch is connected from the battery terminals to the DC OUTPUT of the converter/charger... i.e. all connections and the fuses are working normal between the Battery terminals and the DC OUTPUT of the converter/charger.

In your case it appears the battery terminal of 11.2VDC is almost a dead battery... a 50% state of charge battery reading should be around 12.0VDC...

If all you have charging is 13.6VDC then Progressive Dynamics says it will take 40-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78-hours to reach full charge. One downside to charging with 13.6VDC for this long of time may result in some boiling out of battery fluids... This is one main reason why going with SMART MODE charging modes is a hugh plus for maintaining good battery maintenance...

Roy Ken

13.5V is about what would be expected from a typical single-stage converter. That much seems reasonable and indicates the converter is working.

11.2V is pretty nearly dead for the battery. Since it's been sitting and charging for a good while (a day at least at 13.5V), it should be somewhere in the rough vicinity of 12.5V at least, and usually more when first disconnected from the charger due to having a surface charge. 11.2V would suggest that it is a faulty battery, possibly with a shorted cell, and I'd have no hesitation with bringing it back to the store you bought it from for an exchange...and rather insisting that it be exchanged as faulty, even if there's someone there insisting that it's fine because some mystery box says it is okay.

The four-light battery test thingies are not too useful due to their inherent lack of precision. It would be a little like having a speedometer that only indicated stopped, slow, medium, or fast for speeds.

Reading with shore pwr off was low, check it with the cable disconnected at the battery, it should be 12.6 or so. If it is still over 12 but drops when the trailer is connected but with everything turned off you may have a short somewhere.

When you took the ready with shore power, the meter was actually reading what the charger was putting out.

When you took the reading without shore power, how long had shore power/the charger been plugged in before taking the reading?

What you need to do is plug in for at least 24 hours, if not 48 hours, then unplug it for 12 hours and take a reading.

Bill

NJ6PACK wrote:

The readings are from memory but it was definitely at 13vdc and 11vdc (with and without shore pwr) give or take a few tenths

That doesn't sound good.

EITHER.....your new battery needs a LOT more hours on the charger
OR
The charger capacity is WAY down....it should be charging in the high 13's when the standing voltage is that low (or above 14 ideally)
OR
You have something putting a HEAVY load on the battery causing the voltage to be low when the charger isn't running.

Do you have access to a stand-alone external charger with a capacity of 10 amps or more ? I'm thinking that your new battery has never achieved it's initial full charge yet.....and maybe your built-in converter/charger isn't up to the task.

Yes.... I measured the voltage directly on the Battery (hooked up to TT) with my meter

Battery reading with shore pwr:
13.5 vdc

Battery reading with shore pwr disconnected:

11.2 vdc

The readings are from memory but it was definitely at 13vdc and 11vdc (with and without shore pwr) give or take a few tenths