Converter 110 volt Input Current
Noticed the 110 volt input current to my converter fluctuates significantly with load. When the battery is fully charged, sometimes the 110 volt input current jumps from 1-2 amps to 6-7 amps by just ...
Forum Discussion
Very much appreciate everybody's input!
Although everything appears to be operating just fine in my TT, I did some further checking of the battery and converter voltage/current in my TT just to satify my own curiosity. I'm no electronic whiz, so feel free to correct or comment.
First off, I incorrectly stated my 12 vdc lighting load in my original post. It's much higher than I realized (Salvo, your post got me thinking, thanks!). My TT uses 12 vdc 921 bulbs, which I believe are rated at 1.4 amps each. About 6 or 7 921 bulbs (approx. 9-10 amps 12 vdc) are wired to each light switch. Switching on one light switch (with the converter ON) forces the converter's 110 volt input current to increase approx. 2 amps as shown by the PI EMS (Progressive Industries - Electrical Management System). Switch on a second bank of lights and the converter's 110 volt input current jumps up another 2 amps, total 4-5 amps. With two banks of lights on (assuming 1.4 amps per bulb) total 12 vdc current should be approx. 18-20 amps.
For comparison, I put a maximum load on my 600 watt PSW inverter (rated at 650 watts for 20 min.) with a 650 watt coffee maker. With the converter OFF, using a freshly charged battery (12.75 volts), and the coffee maker running (650 watt load on inverter), I read 11.9 volts on the battery terminals. With the converter ON, a freshly charged battery (12.75 volts), and the coffee maker running (650 watt load on inverter), voltage at the battery read 13.5 volts. During this test, the converter's 110 volt input current ramped up to 15 amps (only rated at 12 amps!!) as shown by the PI EMS.
I believe the inverter with a 650 watt 110 volt load is drawing approx. 65 amps, 12 vdc. The converter 110 volt input current increases to 15 amps to support the dramatic increase in 12 vdc load. On the other hand, turning on 18-20 amps of 12 vdc lighting forces the converter 110 volt input current to increase from 0-1 amps to 4-5 amps. The increase in current (12 vdc and 110 volt) in both scenarios (inverter vs. lighting) appear proportional and would seem to indicate the converter is operating properly. Everyone agree?
Additional info/comment: With the battery fully charged (12.75 vdc) and all 12 vdc lights and appliances turned off, the converter's 110 volt input current is less than one amp. Also, I tend to believe the PI EMS is displaying a reasonably accurate current reading. With only the 13,500 BTU Dometic a/c running, with fan on high, (all other breakers off) the PI EMS shows a current drain of 13-15 amps (data sticker on the a/c says 2 amps for the fan motor and 12.5 amps for the compressor). The inverter is wired directly to the battery. BTW, the inverter output voltage is very stable--116.0 volts under no load--115.8 volts under maximum load (650 watts)!!
Although everything appears to be operating just fine in my TT, I did some further checking of the battery and converter voltage/current in my TT just to satify my own curiosity. I'm no electronic whiz, so feel free to correct or comment.
First off, I incorrectly stated my 12 vdc lighting load in my original post. It's much higher than I realized (Salvo, your post got me thinking, thanks!). My TT uses 12 vdc 921 bulbs, which I believe are rated at 1.4 amps each. About 6 or 7 921 bulbs (approx. 9-10 amps 12 vdc) are wired to each light switch. Switching on one light switch (with the converter ON) forces the converter's 110 volt input current to increase approx. 2 amps as shown by the PI EMS (Progressive Industries - Electrical Management System). Switch on a second bank of lights and the converter's 110 volt input current jumps up another 2 amps, total 4-5 amps. With two banks of lights on (assuming 1.4 amps per bulb) total 12 vdc current should be approx. 18-20 amps.
For comparison, I put a maximum load on my 600 watt PSW inverter (rated at 650 watts for 20 min.) with a 650 watt coffee maker. With the converter OFF, using a freshly charged battery (12.75 volts), and the coffee maker running (650 watt load on inverter), I read 11.9 volts on the battery terminals. With the converter ON, a freshly charged battery (12.75 volts), and the coffee maker running (650 watt load on inverter), voltage at the battery read 13.5 volts. During this test, the converter's 110 volt input current ramped up to 15 amps (only rated at 12 amps!!) as shown by the PI EMS.
I believe the inverter with a 650 watt 110 volt load is drawing approx. 65 amps, 12 vdc. The converter 110 volt input current increases to 15 amps to support the dramatic increase in 12 vdc load. On the other hand, turning on 18-20 amps of 12 vdc lighting forces the converter 110 volt input current to increase from 0-1 amps to 4-5 amps. The increase in current (12 vdc and 110 volt) in both scenarios (inverter vs. lighting) appear proportional and would seem to indicate the converter is operating properly. Everyone agree?
Additional info/comment: With the battery fully charged (12.75 vdc) and all 12 vdc lights and appliances turned off, the converter's 110 volt input current is less than one amp. Also, I tend to believe the PI EMS is displaying a reasonably accurate current reading. With only the 13,500 BTU Dometic a/c running, with fan on high, (all other breakers off) the PI EMS shows a current drain of 13-15 amps (data sticker on the a/c says 2 amps for the fan motor and 12.5 amps for the compressor). The inverter is wired directly to the battery. BTW, the inverter output voltage is very stable--116.0 volts under no load--115.8 volts under maximum load (650 watts)!!
