Converter Charger

mah437 wrote:
will have to go check the model, I am just going to be using it for lights and charging phones and stuff, maybe a stereo. I just like to modify things that I don't really need. LOL.trailer is form my motorcycles. ( I do have a pop-up and a 28' toy hauler also)

The drawing says WF 89xx on it so that is a WFCO.

The converter can charge the battery and so can the 7-pin (pin #4) but as you probably know, the 7-pin has nothing to do with the converter, which needs 120v input to operate.

Maybe this drawing of my WFCO 8900 series Power Distribution Panel is easier to read.



This is installed in my OFF-ROAD POPUP unit and has the WF8945 Converter/Charger unit in it.

I originally purchased this unit but never could get the WF8945 converter to go into smart charge mode so wanted to replace it with a PD9260C converter/charger unit.

Since the WF8945 was brand new I just couldn't pull it out and throw it away so I left it in place and added my PD9260C unit closer to my battery bank. With this setup I can use either the WF8945 unit or the PD9260C unit by flipping the 120VAC circuit breaker ON/OFF for the unit I want to use.

This leaves the WF8945 unit really a back-up unit in case the PD9260C fails.

NOTE I am using two bus bars grounded to the chassis ground but the NEUTRAL BUS BAR is isolated from ground. It gets its return to ground back inside the camp ground pedestal.

Keep in mind to follow the NEUTRAL ISOLATION and CHASSIS grounded items real close to get it right.

All of my ROMEX cables HOT-NEUTRAL-CHASSIS GROUND are on one side of the power distribution panel and the +12VDC and -12VDC(ground) are wired on the other side of the distribution panel. Except for the BATTERY (-) cables I run two (+12VDC and -12VDC) wires to each of my 12VDC items. I use what is called "BOAT CABLE" that has BLACK and WHITE wires inside the covered wiring cable.

All three wires coming from the camp ground pedestal must be used as this is the only way the trailer frame is grounded from lightning strikes etc...

Roy ken

You should be fine then.

will have to go check the model, I am just going to be using it for lights and charging phones and stuff, maybe a stereo. I just like to modify things that I don't really need. LOL.trailer is form my motorcycles. ( I do have a pop-up and a 28' toy hauler also)

What model is it?

I had a WFCO 8955, they are known for never going into boost mode. That may not be an issue on a cargo trailer, but it was for me on a TT where I boondock.

here is the converter/charger. It just threw me off a bit with no DC ground bus. (like the AC side)

thanks for the verification.

I spent most of the week playing with my wiring and moving batteries/wires around, so this is fresh in my mind.

The negative side of the DC has a bus bar nearby the converter in my TT, it also happens to be the bus bar for where the AC side gets grounded to the frame.

The negative wire of the battery attaches to the frame at the tongue, and there are some negative wires that leave that terminal but without removing the underbelly I have no way of knowing if the negative wire that feeds the bus bar is full length, or taps into the frame nearby.

The converter will have a negative lead, it will attach to the DC distribution panel and there is another spot where the distribution panel will have a lug labeled batt (-), run that to the bus bar just like the AC ground.

The single light is fed off the + line from the 7 way, that is the line you will want to run to your battery (thru a 30A fuse) and then from the battery to the batt (+) connection on the DC distribution panel. Ground the frame/battery/7 way to the same spot on the frame and then based on location you can either ground the bus bar there or a closer spot from the frame.

Probably more than you where asking for...

The bare ground wire of the AC side is indeed hooked to the chassis. The white neutral wire is NOT. On the DC side the negative needs to be hooked to the chassis.
Yes, the wire powering you're dome light is the charge wire.