Converter issue

Large black and red should come from the batteries.
Yes, could be in shore power cord.
How does things work off genset? If working, other then converter, problem would be between transfer switch and pedestal end of shore power cord.

Breaker in rv tripped. It is a 15amp breaker. I put a progressive surge protector on 50amp plug from power pole and it reads all good. Where does red and black cables that go to converter come from in rv? Could 50amp cord be a problem. Will check voltage at converter in am, even thou it is not plugged in but still has black and red cables connected if that possible. Once again thanks for all the input and thoughts, suggestions. Will report back as we get answers, solutions

The fireplace maybe on one leg of the shore power and the converter on the other. When the OP turned on the fireplace it placed the converter and fireplace in series do to an open neutral. Thus 240 volts through them.

:h I'm not sure what a fake fireplace has to do with an RV's converter.

Isn't the fireplace powered by 120V AC from the shore power?

And doesn't the converter merely make 12V DC from the 120V AC shore power so as to power the various 12V DC items in the RV ... none of which have anything to do with the fireplace?

Lets keep this simple. He has burned out 2 Converters and on his 3rd. IF he had a voltage supply problem(open neutral/loose wires), OTHER appliances(TV/Microwave/Refer 120 side fuses/Fireplace) would also fail. I would suspect bad battery or a miswires(reversed Positive and Neg) from the battery. Now, some are fixated on the Fireplace. That is a 120 appliance and will not contribute to his problem. The Converter is connected and powers the 12 volt DC side of the RV. Just supplying 120 to it will not cause a malfunction. UNLESS there is 12 volt problems on the Output side. Since he is under warranty, he needs to STOP replacing parts and get the unit in to his dealer for a check out, to find the CAUSE of his problem. If he thinks he will get reimbursed for the converters, he is in for a rude shock. NO OEM is going to pay for self help that keeps destroying expensive parts. They may pay for one but not more than the one. Doug

The OP needs to clarify his first post. He stated "Breaker on Box tripped" Turned off and turned Fireplace OFF and turned breaker back on and Converter fried.
WHAT BREAKER ON WHAT BOX? The CG supply breaker to the 50 amp plug for his 50 amp cord? The breaker in HIS RV 120 breaker box?
If the CG breaker, then YES, odds are the CG breaker box/50 amp receptacle has a problem, like a open Neutral(probably BURNT) or shorted wiring which will indeed fry a 120 appliance, like the Converter, BUT, as I stated this scenario will also fry some of the other 120 appliances, not just the Converter

if your going to quote me
keep it in context
i did mention the need for 12v

there is NO proper reason for an RV absorption fridge to have to have a 'converter' plugged in, even for 120v operation

it does use 12v control circuit, but if the battery is charged

it should work on 120v or LP with a 'converter' unplugged

the way the OP said it, the converter is already unplugged and the fridge only works if the converter is plugged in

that would make the converter in series with the fridge
something is NOT correctly stated or wired !

MrWizard wrote:
there is NO proper reason for an RV absorption fridge to have to have a 'converter' plugged in, even for 120v operation

If the fridge has fans they are 12 volt
TRhe interior light is 12 colt
The seal heater (Controls moisture) is 12 volt
And the DSI ignitiobn systemn and the control system for the fridge is 12 volt.

IN short it will not work at all without 12 volts.

ANd if your batteries are dead/missing/disconnected and the converter is toast there is no 12 volts.

there is NO proper reason for an RV absorption fridge to have to have a 'converter' plugged in, even for 120v operation

it does use 12v control circuit, but if the battery is charged
it should work on 120v or LP with a 'converter' unplugged

there is a cross circuit short or back-feed someplace
do you have a 50amp RV plugged into 50amp service with an open neutral or open hot leg

converter is offline

beg borrow or BUY a 30amp or larger battery charger
use an extension cord to the power pedestal, and connect the charger to your battery

set your fridge to LP, at least you will have lights and your fridge will stay working

while you trouble shoot your problems

Brand and model number of converter would go a long way in an online diagnosis. We aren't standing beside you seeing what you see.

Who installed the fireplace? When was it installed?

Yes a loose connection in the TS can cause the issue. And I would be checking voltage under load first. Use a hair dryer to load up one side, check voltage on the main breakers in the RV.