Converter Issue?

Yes, EVERYBODY(not experianced in the RV operations) seems to think they KNOW how things are supposed to operate. Just because THEY own an RV:)
Problem is, RV's are NOT cookie cutter products. ALL have different parameters and how they are set up. So, to answer your question which you have found out the answer already. YOUR particular OEM decided to connect the Power Converter on the HOT side of the disconnect solenoid. Some connect on the Cold side and some connect on the HOT side. This means, your unit is connected on the hOT side. Hot is the side that goes TO the coach batteries. So, when you turn the disconnect OFF, you found out that when 120 shore power is ON, the Power Converter is NOT supplying 12 volt power to the RV. There are multiple reasons for why OEM's have different ways to connect the Power Converter this way. The simplest in older RV's is you really want a LOAD(coach batteries) connected to the Power Converter when shore power is connected. This helps regulate the charge function of the Converter to the batteries. Having the Converter on the COLD side, when disconnect is OFF, means you DO get 12 volt power to the RV and the Coach batteries are disconnected, which means they will go dead after weeks from parasitic draws on the system. This used to be common place 20/30 years ago when fulltimers or people that used their RV's weeks at a time. Someone accidently pushedthe 12 volt disconnect and since the 12 volt systems in the RV functioned they thought everything was OK. But, they then disconnected shore power and had NO 12 volt. They realized that the disconnect was OFF, but when they attempted to turn the disconnect ON, they found the Coach batteries dead. So, the disconnect would not function. You CAN move the Converter 12 volt power lead to the cold side of the solenoid to accomplish 12 volt power with the disconnect OFF. Some older Power Converters NEEDED the batteries connected to get the beat 12 volt regulation and charge. Doug

You also stated you checked the INVERTER. Was that a mistake, you meant Converter, or do you also have a Inverter? Doug

If you have a modern converter, add a switch at the battery bank. Use that to isolate them for storage. Leave the oem switch set to use.

Or just don’t worry about it unless you’re trying to band-aid a “dumb” converter that doesn’t know when enough is enough.
You could put a disconnect just downstream of the batteries or re-connect the converter on the downstream side of the existing disconnect.

I guess both of those options are fine if you don’t want to replace your existing converter with one that it won’t matter whether you leave the batteries hooked up. (If that’s even an issue, you didn’t say, but it’s the most plausible reason for your question. Imo.)

pianotuna wrote:
If you have a modern converter, add a switch at the battery bank. Use that to isolate them for storage. Leave the oem switch set to use.

I may try that - seems like a good workaround. Thanks

dougrainer wrote:
You also stated you checked the INVERTER. Was that a mistake, you meant Converter, or do you also have a Inverter? Doug

A typo on my part - meant converter - I've updated my original post.

IF your Converter is the type that has a 120 cord and plugs into a 120 receptacle. You can install a Xmas type light timer to only have the converter come on 12 hours a day in storage. This allows the Converter to keep the coach batteries charged and not have to worry about "boiling" the batteries dry from overcharging, from constant charge. Doug

My Rv was wired like this

Converter------Fuse panels----- Battery disconnect switch---Batteries
(note this is somewhat simplified)


Some are wired Converter---Batteries---Disconnect switch---Everything else.

I'm guessing you got one.

dougrainer wrote:
IF your Converter is the type that has a 120 cord and plugs into a 120 receptacle. You can install a Xmas type light timer to only have the converter come on 12 hours a day in storage. This allows the Converter to keep the coach batteries charged and not have to worry about "boiling" the batteries dry from overcharging, from constant charge. Doug

That's a great idea - just went ahead and put a programmable timer on there for when it's at home. That way I can control it remotely if needed. I'll start off by running it 4 hours per day and see how the batteries respond. Thanks for the suggestion!

wa8yxm wrote:
My Rv was wired like this

Converter------Fuse panels----- Battery disconnect switch---Batteries
(note this is somewhat simplified)


Some are wired Converter---Batteries---Disconnect switch---Everything else.

I'm guessing you got one.

Sounds like it - at least now I know it's not something I'm doing, but is just one of the many ways that this could be configured. Thanks!