Forum Discussion
full_mosey
Mar 24, 2021Explorer
Itinerant1 wrote:
What can get confusing with lfp is dropin or diy cells/ battery. Then within that arena are the bms's that can get set by and not altered in dropins or bms's that can get set by the diy.
Then there is the 'full' capacity amount. Mine is set to 14.1v. Capacity Algorithm:The EMS CPU keeps track of the capacity of the battery pack by tracking current in and out of the battery (coulomb counting). There are however several corrections built in to the software to ensure that the capacity stays accurate over time.
The capacity will reset to 100% if the following conditions are met:
- Total pack voltage measures 3.52V x N (N being the number of cells) when being charged by a battery charger.
I could set the voltage higher (14.2-14.6v) but for me 14.1v or 14.2v works perfectly for my needs and keeps the cells fairly equal to each other.
Dropins seem to require a higher voltage of 14.4v +/- the get the capacity reset and balancing the cells.
The difference from full charge from 14-14.6v is very minimal but at the high voltage if you have any runner cells they get pushed in to the upper knee with little return and possibly shortening the life. Which then leads to the next dilemma or debate are your batteries for full convenience of day to day use or you want the "longgggg" life with many cycles of lfp.
Decisions, Decisions
For the drop-ins, IMHO, the lowly WFCO converter that only does 13.6V charging could be perfect for daily charging. There is very little capacity gain by charging past 13.6(3.4V/cell) to offset a potential loss of cycles. There is no penalty for not reaching 'full' charge for long periods. All you actually need is enough charge to carry between charges.
A Harbor Freight 2/10/50A could be adequate for an initial charge and an annual refresh.
HTH;
John
P.S. I am working on a DIY 12.8V pack beginning with four 280Ah cells.
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