Forum Discussion
pianotuna
Mar 26, 2021Nomad III
time2roll,
I have not heard of an alternator failing--but I can tell you when I had the 875 amp-hour bank that I could not keep the 60 amp "house" fuse from blowing. That was 7 group 31 marine cycle jars. 7 x 12.5 amps =~ 87 amps. A single LiFePo4 at 1 C would exceed that.
Yet the folks here have not had this issue. Perhaps they are using shore power or solar to recharge? Or perhaps their installers have taken steps to reduce charging current?
I replaced it with a 50 amp auto reset circuit breaker--and added a 2nd charging path with a 2nd 50 amp automatic breaker. I added manual control of the 200 amp contacting solenoids. The wire size is #8, on both charging paths.
Under heavy loads I could watch the breaker making and breaking. My amp meter tops out at 70 amps.
I would monitor the chassis battery voltage and shut down what I was doing when it reached 12.3 volts. I used a 1/3 duty cycle as well. On for 20 minutes, and off for 40 minutes.
The loads were the 1400 watt water heater plus 325 watts for the fridge, as well as the "anti freeze" fan 27 watts, a 50 watt "heat" rod by the water pump, and a 240 volt 100 watt bulb (circa 40 watts?). In winter there were electric heated carpets instead of the water heater.
The inverter was a 2500 watt Cobra, rated to run motors.
I did get a dc to DC charger to protect the alternator when I move to the SiO2 battery bank. I deliberately chose 20 amps. I chose that amperage because if I'm driving at night in the winter with the heater fan and head lights on, my existing 130 amp alternator doesn't keep up with the loads any more. The chassis draws power from the "house" battery bank.
I have not heard of an alternator failing--but I can tell you when I had the 875 amp-hour bank that I could not keep the 60 amp "house" fuse from blowing. That was 7 group 31 marine cycle jars. 7 x 12.5 amps =~ 87 amps. A single LiFePo4 at 1 C would exceed that.
Yet the folks here have not had this issue. Perhaps they are using shore power or solar to recharge? Or perhaps their installers have taken steps to reduce charging current?
I replaced it with a 50 amp auto reset circuit breaker--and added a 2nd charging path with a 2nd 50 amp automatic breaker. I added manual control of the 200 amp contacting solenoids. The wire size is #8, on both charging paths.
Under heavy loads I could watch the breaker making and breaking. My amp meter tops out at 70 amps.
I would monitor the chassis battery voltage and shut down what I was doing when it reached 12.3 volts. I used a 1/3 duty cycle as well. On for 20 minutes, and off for 40 minutes.
The loads were the 1400 watt water heater plus 325 watts for the fridge, as well as the "anti freeze" fan 27 watts, a 50 watt "heat" rod by the water pump, and a 240 volt 100 watt bulb (circa 40 watts?). In winter there were electric heated carpets instead of the water heater.
The inverter was a 2500 watt Cobra, rated to run motors.
I did get a dc to DC charger to protect the alternator when I move to the SiO2 battery bank. I deliberately chose 20 amps. I chose that amperage because if I'm driving at night in the winter with the heater fan and head lights on, my existing 130 amp alternator doesn't keep up with the loads any more. The chassis draws power from the "house" battery bank.
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