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lj2654's avatar
lj2654
Explorer
Jul 13, 2016

dash ac issue

I had my dash a/c checked out in December. They replaced the compressor, high and low port fittings, a section of ac hose, receiver/drier, and a new condenser fan. Also they had to replace the condenser fuse to a 40 amp one, as it kept tripping the 20 amp one.It only worked for about two short trips in March.

Now it doesn't blow any cold at all. I checked while running and the condenser fan never came on at all. this was for about 45 minutes on high cool setting. Is the condenser fan supposed to be on all the time or only after a while?
  • The Condensor fan is activated by the AC system pressure switch. NO correct pressure and NO condenser fan. IF you have a fan that blows a 20 amp fuse, REPLACE THE FAN, never install a larger fuse. That will cause melted or burnt out supply stream components. Doug
  • "Take 31 aspirin and call me on the morning (Alex J. Goofball PhD MD)"

    This is about on-par with the substitution of a fuse rated for 10-gauge wiring.
  • thanks for all the advice. I had all the work done at a local CAT service center. I figured they would be good as they work on the school buses and big trucks around here, maybe not!
  • If the new fan (if its even the right one) is drawing more current you need to know why; wrong fan, more motors?


    Also not sure of the symptoms; is it blowing at all? or blowing warm air?

    Mine would blow cold for 20-40 minutes then just stop blowing cold air; fan still running.

    It was a bad $30 thermostat on the evaporator coils.
  • It sounds like he shop you went to was throwing parts at the problem instead of diagnosing what was really wrong.

    You need to find a reputable shop who will find and fix the real problem.
  • ddndoug X1

    I have a hotshot A/C tech down here, who insisted on disassembling my old compressor 'To Find Out What Went Wrong'. If he had found debris it would have been new-compressor, new-condener, new evaporator, and new expansion valve and drier. I would have been getting my parts myself so it wasn't a sales job. The compressor oil was drained and it was clean. The problem was a seized valve. Bad or low lubricant from Nippondenso.

    I ordered a new Nippondenso compressor and receiver dryer and it is sitting by my feet.

    The point being: Celso, glared at me hard, when I told him what the OP's shop had done (the 40-amp fuse): "¿Son Locos?" needs little translation.

    My advice is to bite-the-bullet, find a reputable auto HVAC shop and get it done right. Dollars to nickels they'll find other problems and fix them and your dash unit will blast you out of your seat (like it did when brand new). Your unit works with vacuum controlled flaps, isolating heater and airflow, and someone who endangers your electrical system, is burger-flipper grade.

    Jeezo, if I can find competent air conditioner repair down here, it should be a piece of cake up there.
  • I would find a new repair shop, and have them check it. A fuse should not be replaced with a higher amperage one simply because it keeps blowing.

    A set of gauges need to be put on it and see if there is enough refrigerant in the system.

    Does the compressor come on? There are low pressure switches that won't allow the compressor to come on if the pressure is too low.

    Are the fan relays working properly? etc.

    Lots of different components that could be the culprit, but with out proper diagnosis you'll just be guessing.

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