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ScottnSherrie's avatar
Nov 28, 2013

Dayton dual 2.5 inch piston caliper removal

I've had a string of posts about working on the brakes on The Old Gal. She is built on a John Deere chassis and has Dayton Walther 2.5 inch dual piston disc brakes front and back. They do not have caliper slide bolts like most car disc brakes.

It has a key and spring (bent piece of metal)that holds the caliper into the caliper bracket. The other end of the caliper bracket has a groove the caliper rides in. Below is a picture from the JD Chassis shop manual. The two semi-circular cutouts is for a bolt that screws into the bracket so the key does not work it's way out during operation. The bolt has already been removed in the picture.

FYI, the picture shows a brass drift being used to pound the key out. I used a solid brass hinge held by a small vice-grips which worked very well. I can't imagine how many times I would have whacked my hand with the hammer if I had actually used a drift.

  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Ayuh... Ford and Dodge both used to be that way. Be sure you get the slide surfaces clean and rust free. Part of the brake pads releasing is the calipers rattling from bumps in the road surface.
  • I'm convinced the overheating on the left rear and the uneven pad wear on the right rear were caused by the slide surfaces being rusted up.

    Lesson learned: no matter how much of a pain in the butt it is, remove the calipers every couple of years to clean and grease the slides.
  • Yup, grease those slides. With RV's there is more chance for a sticking caliper because they get parked and Mr. Rust has time to move in and get comfortable. With a usual truck chassis, the brakes are tended more frequently because of pad and rotor wear.

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