Need to remove the front calipers on a chevy/workhorse 2000 p30 chassis. removed the set screw so now what do I do. Is there a plate holding the caliper on. Do I have to remove it? If so how? Or does the caliper just rotate up?

I have worked on brake systems for over 30 years and never had a failure. I just have never run into this configuration before. The reason i ask is so I get it right because I am careful. Thanks for your helpful answer.

Once the set scrw is removed, use a drift to drive out the bar keeper. It can be driven either in or out. I drive them in as it is easier. There is a spring bar that goes between the keeper and the caliper. Don't loose it!When reassemblying, make sure you use a liberal amount of caliper grease on the bar. It makes it easier to remove next time.

Thanks Bud. I kinda thought that but before pounding on things I try to check with someone who has done it before. Onward we go!

Mine had a fair amount of rust on it so I hit the slide with a wire wheel and where the slide goes in with a wire brush before adding the grease and re installing.

Yes, it is very important for ease of re-installation to clean both ends of the caliper where it fits into the mount. I used a wire brush wheel on drill to clean both the mount and the caliper.Same goes for the keeper.Check the keeper for any burrs that have developed during removal. Light file will remove them.

p30 front caliper removal | Good Sam Community

11 Replies

Argosy24
Explorer
Sep 02, 2013
If it's a 2000 there are probably hoses on the rear also.
Whatchaupto
Explorer
Sep 02, 2013
After you get yourself all cleaned up from the brake job and have a cold adult beverage , put your dirty clothes back on, get out your creeper and replace those front brake hoses. I have heard that they tend to break down internally and not allow the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder, thus causing the brake pads to hang up in the applied position. I replaced my hoses while I was replacing the front brake pads and between new pads and new hoses, I have no more brake squeal when coming to a stop. Don.
enblethen
Nomad
Sep 02, 2013
Probably the hardest part was getting the wheels off and then back on!
Glad things went well.
Thanks for the update!
Stuck_in_first
Explorer
Sep 02, 2013
Thanks for all the great advice. Job went very well. Replaced antilock-brake sender, greased bearing and put brakes back on. Worked outside, weather man called for partly cloudy then after we started working thunder storms. LOL
enblethen
Nomad
Sep 01, 2013
Mike:
Those are some good diagrams!
mike_brez
Explorer
Sep 01, 2013
I just did mine a few weeks ago. I love this set up. Here is a diagram about half way down the page"Bendix Sliding Caliper"
enblethen
Nomad
Sep 01, 2013
Yes, it is very important for ease of re-installation to clean both ends of the caliper where it fits into the mount.
I used a wire brush wheel on drill to clean both the mount and the caliper.
Same goes for the keeper.
Check the keeper for any burrs that have developed during removal. Light file will remove them.
Gjac
Explorer III
Sep 01, 2013
Mine had a fair amount of rust on it so I hit the slide with a wire wheel and where the slide goes in with a wire brush before adding the grease and re installing.
Stuck_in_first
Explorer
Sep 01, 2013
Thanks Bud. I kinda thought that but before pounding on things I try to check with someone who has done it before. Onward we go!
enblethen
Nomad
Sep 01, 2013
Once the set scrw is removed, use a drift to drive out the bar keeper. It can be driven either in or out. I drive them in as it is easier. There is a spring bar that goes between the keeper and the caliper. Don't loose it!
When reassemblying, make sure you use a liberal amount of caliper grease on the bar. It makes it easier to remove next time.