First trip of the season and I noticed a rolling resistance and brake burning smell. Then I noticed the temp on the tire sensor climbing. Got up to 178! At that point they unsiezed and the temp dropped to normal, drag went away. I had planned to change out the brake fluid before we left but totally forgot, obvious bad move on my part.Question is should I replace everything or just the fluid and front brake lines?

Probably should replace the calipers. I had a rear one stick and then unstick but a few months later it was smoking the brake big time. Finally replaced it like I should have when it first stuck.

Replace calipers, disc pads, fluid and have the rotors turned.Make sure calipers have metal pistons.

I had a front caliper seize up just after leaving the ranger station check-in after a 50-mile highway run. Go figure. I went and got Hoses, Pads and Calipers for both sides. Changed the stuck side on the campsite (lucked out on that one) and the other side when I got home. After another couple runs, I could see the new pads weren't seating on the uncut rotors. Removed rotors, had them re-surfaced, packed bearings and installed new seals. Much better. I was NOT able to remove the Rotors before getting home to bigger tools than I had with me on the trip! The brackets keep them from coming off and are held with large metric bolts with 21mm (or 13/16") heads. Torque spec is 160-pounds and ours also had rust. As an aside, I believe some shops "re-pack wheel bearings" by doing only the outer ones...I'd change both calipers, all four pads, and both hoses. After a few miles, look and see if the overnight rust is being cleaned off both sides of both rotors. If not, have them re-surfaced. Unless they're discolored (blue) and/or checkered (surface cracked) then, replace.EDIT: Seeing the other replies, everybody's diagnosis is the same. Wanted to add, previous owners replaced rear calipers and I just had to do it again. Brake wasn't smokin' but had that burnt-electrical, slipping-clutch smell. REAR calipers aren't as easy to change as the fronts, and I don't mean just getting jacked up and dual wheels off. Up through 2007, Ford used key-type retaining hardware and the keys are a pain to drive out, worse to put back. 2008 and later uses slide bolts like the front.

Thanks for the reply's. That's kind of what I figured. I was just hoping to get off a little cheaper. Better safe than sorry, no price on that. I'm headed out to the parts store.Cheers!

j-d wrote:I had a front caliper seize up just after leaving the ranger station check-in after a 50-mile highway run. Go figure. I went and got Hoses, Pads and Calipers for both sides. Changed the stuck side on the campsite (lucked out on that one) and the other side when I got home. After another couple runs, I could see the new pads weren't seating on the uncut rotors. Removed rotors, had them re-surfaced, packed bearings and installed new seals. Much better. I was NOT able to remove the Rotors before getting home to bigger tools than I had with me on the trip! The brackets keep them from coming off and are held with large metric bolts with 21mm (or 13/16") heads. Torque spec is 160-pounds and ours also had rust. As an aside, I believe some shops "re-pack wheel bearings" by doing only the outer ones...I'd change both calipers, all four pads, and both hoses. After a few miles, look and see if the overnight rust is being cleaned off both sides of both rotors. If not, have them re-surfaced. Unless they're discolored (blue) and/or checkered (surface cracked) then, replace.EDIT: Seeing the other replies, everybody's diagnosis is the same. Wanted to add, previous owners replaced rear calipers and I just had to do it again. Brake wasn't smokin' but had that burnt-electrical, slipping-clutch smell. REAR calipers aren't as easy to change as the fronts, and I don't mean just getting jacked up and dual wheels off. Up through 2007, Ford used key-type retaining hardware and the keys are a pain to drive out, worse to put back. 2008 and later uses slide bolts like the front.Maybe I should pay to have the backs done? I have the tools but some things are worth paying for.

2001 E-450 front calipers siezed-what now? | Good Sam Community

j-d
Explorer II
May 07, 2015
Brake got so hot it cooked the hose. Doesn't happen on only RV's, I fixed a Chevy Celebrity that happened to. But the parts were much less expensive. I think that one got away with calipers, rotors and hoses around $125
k9-keno
Explorer
May 07, 2015
Long story short right front caliper was hung up. And then blew line lost all brakes in rush hour traffic. ( Ford e450 2001 31ft class c) No shoulder either!! Found a patch of grass and e braked and down shifted it to a stop. Smoke was coming out. Got towed to a 24 hour Ford truck repair shop which had all the part in stock. Few hours later left with New brakes rotors, calipers and bearings on both front wheels 850.00 and down the road!! Oh ya and a new set of underwear!!
j-d
Explorer II
May 06, 2015
^^^ It'll track better. Less correction to stay in the lane, better stability when trucks pass.
Holiday27
Explorer
May 06, 2015
pauldub wrote:
Ryan, Have them set it for as much caster as possible when they do the alignment after putting it all back together.

Thanks for the tip. I've heard this discussed but I don't remember why. What is the advantage?
pauldub
Explorer
May 06, 2015
Ryan, Have them set it for as much caster as possible when they do the alignment after putting it all back together.
j-d
Explorer II
May 06, 2015
Tire Man or Borg (Dually Valve).

For Dually Valve, Call Bill at Phone:(800) 300-2674 - Something wrong with webpage.

For Tire Man, This Page,and it has Chuck's phones at the lower right.

Anything less in valves is a wannabe solution.

Your rear brakes should be like CloudDriver's coach same model, chassis, year. He has a great step-by-step page on brakes. In that year, the E-350 might have rear disc brakes with sliding pin mounts. That would be very easy to inspect/change pads/calipers.
fourthclassC
Explorer
May 06, 2015
Interesting discussion. My "new" rig (2003 Wini mini 24v E350) is the first one I have owned with rear disc brakes. I will be checking the rears when I take off the wheels to install ride rite air bags. This is also the first rig I have had with chrome hubcaps on the rear wheels. Currently no air valve extensions. What do you recommend for extensions with the fancy hubcaps.
j-d
Explorer II
May 06, 2015
Ron,

The 2008+ front disk bolts to the back of the hub like earlier ones, but I've never seen it sold separately

The 2008+ front wheel bearings are serviced like earlier ones. Clean, Pack, New Seals, Nut, Nut Keeper, Cotter Key the Dust Cap

If AutoZone's picture of Raybestos 68068 rear rotor is correct, the late model rotor is separated from the hub to replace.

I'm not aware that the rear brakes get replaced by the 4*4 conversion shops, so those of us with New front brakes still have Old rear brakes, and the Master Cylinder still works with new fronts.

BUT!!! Talking Rear brakes, the E350 DRW rear brake design differs from E450, at least in certain years. For one thing, the older E450's have the parking brake on the back of the transmission. E350 has parking brake shoes and so does the newer E450.
snowdance
Explorer
May 06, 2015
One of the most common reasons for the front brakes locking up, or freezing up on the C class is the cab over bunk. Water, dew, AC water often drip on the front wheel and some splashes on the calipers. The front calipers have slides to let them work and it has grease on it. The water washes off the grease. Then the rust cause them to freeze up. Using front wheel covers will help. This applys to Ford, Chevy and Dodge. Most shops just replace the calipers instead of doing the service to them.
ron_dittmer
Explorer II
May 06, 2015
I have a couple questions on the brakes that were implemented in the 2008-2015 E350/E450.

1) For both the front and rear brakes, are the rotors a separate piece now like cars, or are they still one chunk of metal with the hub?

2) Are the hub bearings still serviceable with cotter pins and grease seals, or are they sealed bearings like other current-day vehicles?