DC compressor fridge power usage question
Hey guys - Looking for some help on a fridge topic. First post and have been reading as much as possible on this forum as well as others on the topic... has been very helpful. Quick summary of my ...
Forum Discussion
Thanks for your responses... again very helpful.
@Westend: I think you're right... I haven't been able to test output from my panel in my 'typical' outings so I've reverted to theoretical numbers. Just wanted to get in the ballpark for direction... apparently I need to make sure I'm in the right ballpark. I've read some other posts that have the Danfoss BD35F compressor running between 1.25A-2.7A on their "typical" use. They were also referring to a larger volume and I don't know of the other conditions. So I'm off in my original post as well.
@landyacht318 and wa8yxm: Good points and I've read some of your earlier postings on similar topics. 3-4Amps if far too much for me to handle with my setup... I can live with 1.25A (~30AH daily usage). With 100AH of usable capacity in a 200AH setup, it won't work. Those lithium RV batteries with faster recharge and usable capacity, although expensive, sure look appealing. The other comment about the rarity of the event is acknowledged. However, I'm a design engineer for a large heavy truck OE and see how lines are designed in CAD vs. how they are assembled. I'm talking fuel lines routed close to exhaust and other fluid/electrical lines that chafe to the point of engine faults. It happens quite a bit especially with road vibration. Polypro protective convolute rubs through aluminum tubing all of the time not to mention wiring if it has the slightest relative motion. My problem with the 3-way system is that I can't regularly inspect how the lines are routed without tearing the unit out. On the other hand the theory of a small propane flame to drive a refrigeration system actually make a lot of sense. But then I've been 'burned' once before (pun intended).
Thanks for your feedback... I look forward to more advice if there are any. Specifically anyone using the BD35F in a smaller fridge (3cuft) and if they know average amperage draw in relatively mild environments.
@Westend: I think you're right... I haven't been able to test output from my panel in my 'typical' outings so I've reverted to theoretical numbers. Just wanted to get in the ballpark for direction... apparently I need to make sure I'm in the right ballpark. I've read some other posts that have the Danfoss BD35F compressor running between 1.25A-2.7A on their "typical" use. They were also referring to a larger volume and I don't know of the other conditions. So I'm off in my original post as well.
@landyacht318 and wa8yxm: Good points and I've read some of your earlier postings on similar topics. 3-4Amps if far too much for me to handle with my setup... I can live with 1.25A (~30AH daily usage). With 100AH of usable capacity in a 200AH setup, it won't work. Those lithium RV batteries with faster recharge and usable capacity, although expensive, sure look appealing. The other comment about the rarity of the event is acknowledged. However, I'm a design engineer for a large heavy truck OE and see how lines are designed in CAD vs. how they are assembled. I'm talking fuel lines routed close to exhaust and other fluid/electrical lines that chafe to the point of engine faults. It happens quite a bit especially with road vibration. Polypro protective convolute rubs through aluminum tubing all of the time not to mention wiring if it has the slightest relative motion. My problem with the 3-way system is that I can't regularly inspect how the lines are routed without tearing the unit out. On the other hand the theory of a small propane flame to drive a refrigeration system actually make a lot of sense. But then I've been 'burned' once before (pun intended).
Thanks for your feedback... I look forward to more advice if there are any. Specifically anyone using the BD35F in a smaller fridge (3cuft) and if they know average amperage draw in relatively mild environments.
