I totally get NOT using the EZlube fitting (ruined some brakes), Timken parts, and annual service. What I don't get is the conflicting methods being used to set the zero backlash on the bearing, i.e., 0.001 to 0.005 clearance.My previous trailer had Alko axles, and I adjusted the bearing per Alko recommendations: rotate and tighten to 20 ft-lbs, loosen nut without motion, tighten to 8 ft lbs, back off one castellation, stick the pin in. Never had a problem in 60,000 miles.My 2018 Rockwood has Dexter axles. Dexter says to rotate and tighten to 50 ft-lbs, loosen the nut, and then "hand tighten" the nut and back off a bit. What kind of procedure is that? Hand tighten?If you go on Youtube, people are doing all sorts of crazy stuff, everything from tighten by hand and back off a full quarter rotation. The Alko method seems scientific, the Dexter method seems weird, and many of the Youtube ideas will cause a failure I'm sure.So .... from someone who has actually done this several times, and has gone 10's of thousands of miles ... how are you doing it?PS: Dexter didn't see fit to install brake adjustment hole dust plugs which causes me concern for their commitment to quality.

I tighten the castle nut with a wrench then back it off. I then hand tighten the nut and back off to the next slot in the nut. I like an ever so slight bit of play in my bearings to allow room for heat expansion. No bearing failures here.

Thats basically the way I was taught back in the 60s. Never had a bearing problem in 40+ years

Dexter has been a fairly reputable company for many years. While one size does not fit all, the description from Dexter, for many RV axles sounds about right. Once the hub/bearings are set, about 50 lbs, the castle nut can be loosened, without moving the hub, finger tight, put pin through. If pin is not aligned at finger tight, it should be backed off slightly, until pin goes through.You are correct, with so many folks doing things differently, seems like more bearing failures could be caused by incompetence, than lack of grease.Most I've seen have dust plugs, unless removed and forgotten/left out by a previous owner.Jerry

That gives me a bit of assurance. When I first had a TT back in 2007, I paid a mechanic to repack my bearings ... and everyone of them failed. Spent hours and hours pounding all the races out and re-seating. Don't ever want to go through that again.

That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Dexter bearing adjustment procedure | Good Sam Community

azdryheat
Explorer
Dec 29, 2018
I tighten the castle nut with a wrench then back it off. I then hand tighten the nut and back off to the next slot in the nut. I like an ever so slight bit of play in my bearings to allow room for heat expansion. No bearing failures here.
donn0128
Explorer II
Dec 29, 2018
Thats basically the way I was taught back in the 60s. Never had a bearing problem in 40+ years
MFL
Nomad II
Dec 29, 2018
Dexter has been a fairly reputable company for many years. While one size does not fit all, the description from Dexter, for many RV axles sounds about right. Once the hub/bearings are set, about 50 lbs, the castle nut can be loosened, without moving the hub, finger tight, put pin through. If pin is not aligned at finger tight, it should be backed off slightly, until pin goes through.

You are correct, with so many folks doing things differently, seems like more bearing failures could be caused by incompetence, than lack of grease.

Most I've seen have dust plugs, unless removed and forgotten/left out by a previous owner.

Jerry
Timeking
Explorer
Dec 29, 2018
That gives me a bit of assurance. When I first had a TT back in 2007, I paid a mechanic to repack my bearings ... and everyone of them failed. Spent hours and hours pounding all the races out and re-seating. Don't ever want to go through that again.
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Dec 29, 2018
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?
MitchF150
Explorer III
Dec 29, 2018
Yep, I've always done them that way.. Tighten them up (I don't use a torque wrench, just what feels right..) and then back off the nut and hand turn it until the cotter pin goes thru..

Give it a few spins and then feel if there is any 'play' in it and if it feels right, go to the next one..

Been doing that forever and so far so good!

Good luck!

Mitch
Lynnmor
Explorer
Dec 30, 2018
fj12ryder wrote:
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Auto-adjust has even more parts inside to be fouled by road debris, go to an auto parts store and get the missing plugs.
DustyR
Explorer
Dec 30, 2018
MFL wrote:
Dexter has been a fairly reputable company for many years. While one size does not fit all, the description from Dexter, for many RV axles sounds about right. Once the hub/bearings are set, about 50 lbs, the castle nut can be loosened, without moving the hub, finger tight, put pin through. If pin is not aligned at finger tight, it should be backed off slightly, until pin goes through.

You are correct, with so many folks doing things differently, seems like more bearing failures could be caused by incompetence, than lack of grease.

Most I've seen have dust plugs, unless removed and forgotten/left out by a previous owner.

Jerry

X-2

This method insures that the bearing/race combo is properly seated in the hub. Better slightly loose than too tight.
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Dec 30, 2018
Lynnmor wrote:
fj12ryder wrote:
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Auto-adjust has even more parts inside to be fouled by road debris, go to an auto parts store and get the missing plugs.
When I stated there were no plugs, I meant there were no places for plugs, not that there were empty holes with no plugs installed. Sorry that I wasn't clearer on that point. At least I don't remember seeing any place for plugs to go. Perhaps I simply overlooked them. Happens more as I get older.
drsteve
Explorer
Dec 30, 2018
Lynnmor wrote:
fj12ryder wrote:
That description sounds about how I do it. My auto-adjusting brakes don't have the dust plugs either. I guess they figure they're not necessary with auto-adjust brakes. Maybe that's why yours doesn't have the plugs?

Auto-adjust has even more parts inside to be fouled by road debris, go to an auto parts store and get the missing plugs.

My 2018 Coachmen with self adjusting brakes doesn't have the plugs either.