smkettner wrote:
Snowman9000 wrote:
But if I was to install a disconnect switch on the positive side, properly isolated, it will be good, won't it? I mean, the battery is just as surely disconnected by a switch at the positive as at the negative. ??? Like I said, I feel stupid asking this, but it's cheaper than a transmission. :)
Switch on the positive is fine. Since it is on the positive I recommend an insulated switch vs an exposed knife switch. Terminal switch with the knob is perfect.
That would fit nicely contained within the plastic battery box with removable plastic lid. However on Amazon I read reviews of various offerings of that disconnect and it sounds pretty sketchy. Even to the point that it can fail and reestablish a connection. Which would be disastrous.
So my options are either a knife switch or re-doing the cabling to accommodate a marine type switch. The cabling is funky and I would prefer to leave it alone. On the positive cable, there is a pair of ordinary primary wires, like 14-18 gauge, running along the cable and then crimped with the cable inside the post clamp. They spiral taped over the cable and 2 wires with electrical tape. If I didn't know better I would think I'm looking at an RV, lol.
The negative cable has a big plate on the post end, mounting some sort of little fuse or something, with wires coming off of it. It's so buried that I haven't looked too closely.
But if I have to take out one of the cables and rework it, I will. In the overall scheme of things it won't be a big deal. OTOH if I can safely use a knife switch, I will do that.
