Do Norcolds Partially Fail?

OP here, and I think dougrainer and Old Biscuit called it. It's level, hasn't moved in two years, doesn't need to be defrosted because it self-defrosted when it went to 50 degrees. Agree about warm air coming in from a cracked drain tube, but wouldn't affect freezer.

Not in a slide, gas pressure is OK, plus works no better on electric than on gas. The flue is hot but the fridge is warm. I think it's time for that 10 cu-foot residential.

Thanks everyone for assisting. I'll let you know how we like the Whirpool (on sale at Sears this weekend). I sure hope the Norcold will go out the 24-inch door, I'd hate to R&R a big window.

Wayne

One other thought. Does it need to be defrosted?

How about the thermistor. Is it possible it needs to be replaced?

I'll chime in and say hydrogen atoms are tiny. Hot hydrogen atoms are tiny and angry. Little by little, atom by atom, they worm their way through massive molecules and fly straight up in the air.

Only problem is your refrigerator needs hydrogen in the absorbsion fluid and gas to work.

So no, refrigerators do not have to smell like a giant squid in order for them to be bad.

And another possibility is the old cooling unit is clogging up inhibiting proper vapor/liquid---heat transfer.

Off level operation over time---accumulative---will cause crystals to form (like plague) and build up blocking the flow.

Improper cooling on GAS.....gas pressure, dirty burner/orifice, dirty flue, out of position flue baffle
Improper cooling on ELECTRIC......low AC voltage, heating element bad

Improper cooling on BOTH....blocked ventilation, faulty thermistor, off level or clogged cooling unit

You will only smell ammonia and/or see yellowish residue when tube has cracked from overheating (inadequate flow of vapor/liquid cooling fluid)

YC 1 wrote:
Symptoms of a bad drain tube. Those white ripply hoses that hang out the back. When, not if, they crack, they let the P trapped water out from condensation and allow warm air to enter. Grab the hose and it is probably brittle. As an emergency fix on my brothers unit I slid some clear tubing inside the old tube. Works great now. Make sure there is a U in the hose so water can plug the hose a bit. In other words, not straight out the side vent.

A bad drain tube will have NO affect on the freezer temp. Doug

Freezer should be below 10 degrees. Is this unit in a slide room?
The most common failure of a cooling unit when it is NOT a leaker is this---The refer must be level at all times except when in transit. But, over the years, RV'ers while in transit and they stop, they have the refer ON and that stop however short IF the refer is off level will start a very miniscule blockage due to unlevel operation. Sometimes that off level may be for a few hours or even days or overnite. But, the blockage process keeps happening in very small parts. Then one day after years of this, the refer fails to perform and they think it just happened, but it was that accumulation over the years that finally caused it. Also, blocked or inadequate rear back coil fresh air ventilation can "cook" a Cooling unit in less that 24 hours. A Cooked cooling unit is completely ruined. Doug

Symptoms of a bad drain tube. Those white ripply hoses that hang out the back. When, not if, they crack, they let the P trapped water out from condensation and allow warm air to enter. Grab the hose and it is probably brittle. As an emergency fix on my brothers unit I slid some clear tubing inside the old tube. Works great now. Make sure there is a U in the hose so water can plug the hose a bit. In other words, not straight out the side vent.

I had a similar problem with our Dometic 8 cu ft fridge. Blue flame and all. After 2 years of having temperatures rising in fridge part when on gas. I saw a post that mentioned that you should be able to hear the burn when running on gas. I could not. There are 2 things that need to be checked. LP pressure is first. I had a Mobile RV tech do this. Then I removed nozzle/orifice from burner. Soaked it in Alcohol for 1/2 hour. Then blew it out with air. Installed nozzle back in place. Fired fridge back up. I can now hear burner when flame is on. Temperatures are now below 40 on a lower setting than I used before.
Hope this helps.
Someone else may have information on how to check/adjust LP pressure yourself.