Domestic fridge problem

I will add, if a good cleaning and adjustment session does not fix it.

And IF you decide a new control board is the answer

DINOSAUR BOARDS is a company that makes 3rd party replacements for many Dometic/Atwood and Surburan products.. And they make them very very well in my not very humble trained opinion.. That is what I put in my furnace, would have liked to do same for water heater but logistics prevented.

any luck getting it going?

Thank you for everyone that answered,the weather is raining here so I won't get another chance till the rain stops. The year is a 2006 work and play. The gas line has been purged of air. Everything else, furnace, stove ect work fine. I noticed at the end of the season last year it started acting up. I plan on looking it over again this week and will update as soon as I can. Thanks again. I love this site!

Thank you for everyone that answered,the weather is raining here so I won't get another chance till the rain stops. The year is a 2006 work and play. The gas line has been purged of air. Everything else, furnace, stove ect work fine. I noticed at the end of the season last year it started acting up. I plan on looking it over again this week and will update as soon as I can. Thanks again. I love this site!

Welder99 wrote:
Hello, I have a Dometic fridge, when I unplug it from 120 volt it won't always switch to LP. The check light will come on.im sure it's the circuit board.how long should it take when u unplug from shore power before the LP should kick on?Also where's a good place to buy a board ? The Model is a RM 2652. Thanks in advance.

It should switch from AC to GAS in a matter of seconds. but it may be some time before it attempts to light the flame depending on where in the it's on/off cycle it is. (most are designed for 50 percent duty cycle on a 72 degree day... so if it has just turned of when you switch it could be a while.

I have NOT had the problem you cite with the fridge, but I have with a furnace or two.. Both oil fired house (Sticks and bricks type) and RV,

The spark gap on the Direct Spark Ignition was set too wide. Up to 4 times the spec sheet.. This caused occasional malfunction. re-setting the gap fixed it.

Since this is a no-cost fix, and since you can easily clean the burner area while you are at it (there are other things in this same physical area that can cause the same issue) might as well check it out.

1. What year model RV?
2. The check light is ONLY to tell you that it did not light on LP
3. You have 2 components on the LP The Main control board and the REIGNITOR. The reignitor actually lights and opens the Gas valve after a signal from the main control board. So, you may NOT have a bad control board. Does the refer TRY to light? It should try 3 times about every 30 seconds BEFORE it goes to check light lock out. Doug

Is the gas on? Did you purge the gas lines before attempting to light the refer? The tiny pilot flame is just too small to purge the gas lines if your gas has been off for any length of time.

If the check light comes on that usually means it can't get gas.

It should switch from electric to LP in a few seconds. I've never times mine but I'd say 5 seconds or so.
Do you have air in your LP lines?
You will want a board from Dinosaur electronics. I'm not sure who has the best price. I'd try Tweety's and PPL Motorhomes for starters.