Forum Discussion
wrgrs50s
Dec 27, 2015Explorer
It should only use propane when no 120VAC is present.
I just recently had the same issue and here is what I found:
1st I checked the plug in the back of the fridge and the voltage was present there. Next I took off the black cover off the circuit board and checked the fuses and both were good. Next I checked where the 120V Ac plugs onto the circuit board and found that the spaded plug was not completely pushed on. When I pushed on it, it snapped in. I then plugged the AC plug back in and turned on the fridge and it worked on AC as it should.
If all fuses are good and the connections are all tight the next thing to check is the heating element with an ohm meter. I think it's suppose to have about 41ohms if the heater rod is good. Also there should be Voltage across the pins where the heater rod is connected to the circuit board. If no voltage is present there, but all else checks out ok then the board may be bad. Some RV parts/shops have a circuit board tester which I would recommend before replacing the board.
I just recently had the same issue and here is what I found:
1st I checked the plug in the back of the fridge and the voltage was present there. Next I took off the black cover off the circuit board and checked the fuses and both were good. Next I checked where the 120V Ac plugs onto the circuit board and found that the spaded plug was not completely pushed on. When I pushed on it, it snapped in. I then plugged the AC plug back in and turned on the fridge and it worked on AC as it should.
If all fuses are good and the connections are all tight the next thing to check is the heating element with an ohm meter. I think it's suppose to have about 41ohms if the heater rod is good. Also there should be Voltage across the pins where the heater rod is connected to the circuit board. If no voltage is present there, but all else checks out ok then the board may be bad. Some RV parts/shops have a circuit board tester which I would recommend before replacing the board.
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