Dometic Dm2852 eyebrow board bypass info needed

Traveler
Plugging the fridge into the designated outlet in the compartment , simply turn off the circuit breaker in the breaker panel to turn off the fridgr, or just unplug it from the outlet,
It not being hardwired , just direct without control board ,. Method had been advocated many times for testing fridge operation, snd trouble shooting

Connect the 2 120 leads from the 120 element to a 120 extension cord. You will know in less than 5 minutes if the element gets HOT. If not, then the element is bad. Doug

enblethen wrote:
OP didn't respond as to what got thrown away.
***Link Removed***

yes the eyebrow board got thrown away. I talked to him today and originally the fridge would only run on propane, the rv shop told him it was the lower board so he replaced that and i didn't fix the problem.

OP didn't respond as to what got thrown away.
Eyebrow

enblethen wrote:
Had to replace my old clamp-on meter. I purchased this one. Easier to use then old Amprobe brand.AC/DC clamp-on
I doubt eyebrow is problem.

I think he meant they threw away the Eyebrow board? So, they need to jump the wires on the eyebrow connector? Doug

Had to replace my old clamp-on meter. I purchased this one. Easier to use then old Amprobe brand.AC/DC clamp-on
I doubt eyebrow is problem.

Connect AC to the board and measure the amp draw. If none then connect directly to the heating coil. If still none replace the heating coil. I would not leave it connected since there is no way for the AC to be truned off. Also with the AC ground wire connected plug into a GFCI and make sure there is NO coil connection to ground. And a working coil does not mean the refer will cool as there are many other potential problems but it's a start. And turn on DC as needed for the board.

I've often recommended that RV owners buy, beg, borrow or steal (just kidding) a clampon ammeter. Be sure it will measure DC amps as the typical electrician clampon has no use for DC testing, but every RV or auto could. Also suggest 150A+ DC capability as some devices like a MW draw a lot of DC amps from an inverter. And inverter means exactly that 12VDC to 120VAC. The cost for a very usable clampon ammeter is well south of $100 and is pocket change compared to holding up a credit card. :B

I don't think there is a way other than trial and error to jump the wires going to the eyebrow board. in 40 years, I NEVER had to worry about jumping any type refer eyebrow board. Doug

MrWizard wrote:
Disconnect and the 120v cord from the board
Disconnect the 120v heating element leads from the board, connect heater leads to cord, plug cord into the fridge compartment outlet ,
It is now direct wired and will cool to maximize capability, will never cycle off as long as trailer has 120v

will try this, thanks

wolfe10 wrote:
The board "runs" on 12VDC, whether on propane or 120 VAC.

No 12VDC and it will NOT work on either heat source.

copy, I will make sure to hook up 12 vdc to the back of the fridge. I read that in the manual but when i tested the plug it had dc voltage on it so i figured there many have been a converter somewhere