We have a DM2852. Our manual covers your fridge too.
12V DC connection
RM2451, RM2551, DM2652 & DM2852: These refrigerator
models are not designed for 12V DC operation of the cooling
system. However, 12V DC must be supplied to operate the
controls.
RM2354, RM2454, RM2554, DM2662, DM2663, DM2862,
DM3862 & NDM1062: These refrigerator models require a
continuous 12V DC supply to maintain the automatic energy
system.
The operational range of the unit is a minimum of 9.6V DC to a maximum of 22V DC. At 22V DC, the
unit will automatically shut down until voltage has decreased to 18V DC for proper operation; however,
the panel lights will continue to illuminate until voltage has dropped to 4V DC or below.
When replacing fuses if the red light came back on then the fuse blew. The lights next to our fuse panel are never lit - I did short out a light and it blew the fuse and the red light came on.
There is a 12 volt terminal strip in the back of the RV.
You may want to remove the leads and re-install one at a time to determine which part of the fridge is blowing the fuse. May be a "black box" issue or a loose lead.
The controller has some glass fuses in it too - I have popped the cover on mine to look at the circuit board.
FUSES
The 3 amp DC fuse is designed to protect the circuit board from internal shorts. The 5 amp AC fuse
is designed to protect the integrity of the AC heater circuit from shorts.
Would be nice if it is under warranty.
The electric print is on the back of the fridge.
12V terminal strip (white wires and white wire with purple). Where I got power for a second external vent fan. The black fuse holder is the power fuse/lead for the original external vent fan. Picture taken before I added a second fan. The black box is the controller.
I have a copy of the Dometic Service Tips manual (PDF file) that can provide some trouble shooting tips - you will need a meter to read resistance, DC voltage and AC voltage. I can e-mail the manual to you if you want it. PM me if you are interested.
