Dometic fridge not cooling

Got the new unit in and running last night. All is cooling correctly.

I don't see how anybody who has the choice to replace coils or buy a new unit in a case like this would waste the extra money on a new fridge. This job was NOT difficult but will take two people to do it. And like in my earlier post, the customer service from RV Cooling Units is exceptional.

Thanks everybody for the posts!

mchero wrote:
I bet we can keep this thread going for a couple years!

My Amish cooling unit still going strong! will be giving it the BIG TEST this weekend. Will be at the beach Thursday - Monday.

Just got back from 3 days at Lake Pleasant (in the desert) where it ranged from 85-98 degrees with full AZ sun.....too windy for awning, and my Amish unit never missed a beat.
Freezer 0-3 and fridge 27-33.
I have it set on the colder side since its hot here and opening the door recovery is better.

Its amazing how much faster it cools down from hot, not being used. The original Dometic RM2652 took about 7 hours to get to temp, this one about 3 hours from 90 to 33 degrees.

bob_nestor wrote:

robsouth wrote:
I believe that if the thermistor fell off, the unit would operate a full capacity at all times and would freeze everything. JMHO!

Yeah, I know that's what all the literature says but that's not what happens to mine!

Sorry, but IF the Thermister is NOT on a metal evap fin, the refer will run full throttle. The "literature" is correct. The Thermister does NOT react to the Exact interior temp. It reacts to how cold the evap fins are. The fins are 10 degrees colder than the interior temp. If the interior refer temp is 36 degrees, then the fin temp will be about 26 degrees. AND, that is the temp the Thermister reacts too.

I bet we can keep this thread going for a couple years!

My Amish cooling unit still going strong! will be giving it the BIG TEST this weekend. Will be at the beach Thursday - Monday.

I ordered the new coils from David at RV Cooling Unit. Ordered it on a Friday night, delivered on my doorstep on Tuesday at 2pm. Like mchero, I had a question on a Tuesday after normal business hours. I called the phone number and it was David' personal cell! He answered and gave very good directions to my questions. Cannot say enough good about his customer service!

My heater rod had problems. I believe thet it has ran constantly for over 14 years, it "welded" itself to the tube on the coils. The tube started chipping away as I tried to remove it. Ended up leaving it in and just going out and buying a new one.

We got everything replaced except that element and the insulation around it. We will be finishing up tomorrow and "Plug it in".

I will report back after we're done.

Have spent a few hours over the past three days working on my daughter's 87 Norcold, not sure of the model number.

We are running on 120 AC. It has been getting warm and making gurgling type noises since we first plugged it in. It's been plugged and unplugged for several hours at a time.
Today I had time for more in depth diagnosis and cleaning. Pulled the roof vent and cleaned the screen which which was partially clogged. Definitely improved the airflow. After cleaning out the vent, and leveling the trailer last night, the sound in the back of the fridge is more consistent like mine. Just more of a steady hissing type sound with an occasional burp.
Pulled the cover off the stack. AC heating element is definitely doing it's job. Hitting almost 400* where it's connected to the boiler. Drawing a steady 2.75 amps. Primary tube at the top is about 160 at the highest point before going into the condenser. Coming out of the condenser around 80. Ambient temp was about 55 today. Recovery tank was about 80 degrees.
There still didn't seem to be any cooling happening tonight.

I'm not having much luck so far finding any info of what the temps should be. At this point I may pull the fridge tomorrow and flip it for the day and see if that helps. She just purchased the camper, we do not know how long it's been since it was last used. Fortunately everything else has worked fine and I got real lucky fixing the black tank pipe connection.

JC2 wrote:

Luvs2Camp wrote:
Well, we pulled it out of the hole and found the anhydrous ammonia leak. It was up into the insulated area and I could not see it without removing the fridge. Had the yellow dust everywhere. Just ordered a replacement coil and will replace it.

Curious as to if you ordered a brand new fridge or just the rear cooling unit coil in the rear. New rear cooling unit coils are ordered from http://rvcoolingunit.com/Default.aspx by most people. You might call David Force at the phone # on the website. He is very informative and helpful.

David is a FANTASTIC guy! VERY helpful. I asked a question on a Sunday, not expecting a reply till Monday. To my surprise Dave replyed on a Sunday!

Ordered a NEW Amish cooling unit for my Norcold side-by-side on Monday and had it at my doorset Thursday. Installed on a Saturday afternoon.

Sunday AM freezer compartments where frozen! All systems GO! Even the ice maker is loaded with ice now! Had to order a new Solenoid for the drink despenser but all in all it was a rather easy swap.

Luvs2Camp wrote:
Well, we pulled it out of the hole and found the anhydrous ammonia leak. It was up into the insulated area and I could not see it without removing the fridge. Had the yellow dust everywhere. Just ordered a replacement coil and will replace it.

Curious as to if you ordered a brand new fridge or just the rear cooling unit coil in the rear. New rear cooling unit coils are ordered from http://rvcoolingunit.com/Default.aspx by most people. You might call David Force at the phone # on the website. He is very informative and helpful.

Well, we pulled it out of the hole and found the anhydrous ammonia leak. It was up into the insulated area and I could not see it without removing the fridge. Had the yellow dust everywhere. Just ordered a replacement coil and will replace it.

Hi,

My measures at 325 watts.