Hello,2008 Warrior CR3705.....Well for some reason it seems that the gremlins got me again. I posted a few weeks ago about my large dintette slide having issues and now my fridge.Please bare with me as I will try and make it short but descriptive.The fridge works as normal on 120V AC (gen and plug in) but will not function on propane. I made sure the Dometic recall was done a few years ago so I am good there. Unfortunately I just got back last night so I have not torn into it but I can offer this information.Propane tank is full, the line was feeding the RV properly so I attempted to restart the fridge several times with no luck, the "CHECK" light would come on after a few minutes. I removed the rear cover in the storage and checked all the obvious (fuses etc). I had my friend shut it off and restart it. There was NO ignitor click. We tried several times with no success. I decided to have him shut it off, switch to "GAS" only and restart the fridge but this time I manually lit the pilot with success. I watched it for several minutes and the fridge remained lit for 12 hrs.....then the CHECK light came back on. I did the same thing in the morning and again the fridge worked for only 12 hrs and then the "CHECK" light came back on indicating the pilot light went out.Just to summarize:Fridge works on AC (gen and plug in)Ignitor does not appear to be workingI can light the pilot light manually and it stays onFridge fucntion for 12hrs when I manually lit it (2 days of camping)Hopefully someone can offer an explanation for the problem I am having and possibly point me in the right direction in the way of parts I may need to fix itI appreciate the timeJoe

The spark electrode is not getting power or is not sparkingNO power.....could be bad circuit on lower board/bad contact on lower board.Pull connectors for 12V DC on board, clean contacts and make sure the pins are making good contact. Pull high voltage wire to ignitor and clean/check for tight connection.Not sparking......could be cracked ceramic/could be bad high voltage wire/could be gap is not correct (3/16" and directly over burner slots)/could be bad electrode.With it 'working by manually lighting'......then is sounds like problem with power to spark electrodeWhich model of Dometic?

Joe I'm going to move this thread over to the Tech Issues forum from Toy Haulers as I think you'll get more assistance with your issues. Steve

That Dometic might be on the recalled list. I'd probably go and check serial numbers.

Old-Biscuit wrote:The spark electrode is not getting power or is not sparking....Which model of Dometic?Everything Old-Biscuit said. The spark gap from the electode to the burner should be 3/16".

Thanks guys. I am at work but will get you the information by tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far!Joe

Dometic fridge problem | Good Sam Community

18 Replies

Empty_Nest__Soo
Explorer
Feb 09, 2014
Dinosaur replacement boards are great! By all reports, much better than OEM.

A few years ago a new one fixed the gremlins in my furnace, which wanted to run only intermittently.

Wayne
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Feb 08, 2014
Thanks for posting back with results.

Glad to hear you are back in the 'cool'
joe_blow
Explorer
Feb 04, 2014
Received the new dinosaur electronics circuit board today and installed it. Install was pretty straight forward. The original board and the new board were pretty close in construction. The igniter cable had to be reused which I deemed to be good with a quick continuity test.

Fridge works! Burner ignites and all is good!

Thank you all for the suggestions and diagnostic ideas.
joe_blow
Explorer
Jan 31, 2014
Chris Bryant wrote:
You don't need a new circuit board, you just need to remove the electrode, lightly sand the tip, wipe the ceramic off with a rag soaked in silicone lube spray and reinstall.

Trust me.....I have done everything. It is nothing obvious like that....thanks for the help
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Jan 31, 2014
You don't need a new circuit board, you just need to remove the electrode, lightly sand the tip, wipe the ceramic off with a rag soaked in silicone lube spray and reinstall.
joe_blow
Explorer
Jan 31, 2014
You guys are the best! Thank you all for the help. I will report once I get it installed.

Thank you for the link....I have a few prospects and am going to buy it today

Thanks again
Joe
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jan 30, 2014
Hey Joe,

If you have cleaned all the connectors/contacts on board, have verified you have good 12V DC to the board and good continuity on high voltage wire to spark electrode........yep bad board.

And as noted....you light it manually...main flame stays lit so spark electrode is sending flame proof signal back to board and board is keeping gas valve open UNTIL temp set point has been reached and then it shuts down.......but no relight due to faulty ignition control on board.

Replace it with a new board by Dinosaur Electronic's. Very well made circuit board..direct replacement. Same part number---358o712.01
LINK
joe_blow
Explorer
Jan 30, 2014
That makes total sense. So, what do you think of the diagnostics and findings (with everyone's help ofcourse) does it sound like the circuit board requires replacing?

Thanks
Joe
marcsbigfoot20b
Explorer
Jan 30, 2014
joe blow wrote:
Hi old biscuit,

Just got a chance to tear into it. The model is an RM3862. I have checked everything possible and still outside messing with it. It is confirmed the ignitor is just not sparking or attempting to spark. The ignitor plugs into a relay and the plug is very difficult to remove, does this plug come out before I destroy it trying to remove it to check connections?

Also you did take note that I could light it manually but WHY does it only stay lit for 12hrs and I have to go through the relight process?

Thanks for your help

Joe

It probably runs after you manually light it until it finally reaches its set point 30-40 degrees in the fridge, then cycles off........flame out. It then tries to ignite when the temp rises to say 35-45 but there is no spark.
joe_blow
Explorer
Jan 30, 2014
Ok so I got as far as I am going to tear into it with no results. I cleaned, checked and double checked everything you guys advised on. The ignitor has continuity from the plug all the way to the electrode. The 12V is all solid and power is where it is supposed to be. The fridge goes through its relight process as scheduled per the book. I hear the fridge cycling through it's restart procedure but NO IGNITOR. The only thing I can think of is the lower board is bad on the ignitor coil side.....what do you guys think?

Thanks for the time
Joe

PS...the part number is 3850712-01

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Dometic fridge problem

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