Hello all, my Dometic RM2652 in my 99 Travelmaster class C RV was in my level shop hooked up and running good. I went out one day after we had a pretty bad storm and our electricity went off and back on about 5 times in a short period of time. Then it stayed off for about 36 hours. I noticed that our fridge power light was not on the fridge. So I turned the fridge off and reset the thermal switch on the heat unit. I went back in and turned fridge on. The power came on and the auto light was on. So I thought well the storm just threw the thermal sensor. So I turned the fridge off so I could clean it thinking it was fine. Well today I went out to turn the fridge on to get ready to go camping at the end of the month. When I turned it on the the lights came on the control panel as it should. It was on for a while then later I noticed the lights on the fridge were off. I went back to the thermal sensor and it was thrown again. I reset it again and it did the same thing. The heating element is getting hot. I do not think the cooling unit is bad but not positive. I do not see any yellow or green looking stuff around the heat unit. Is there anything else I should check that could be making the fridge not operate correctly? Could it be that the thermal sensor switch is just bad? Would appreciate any help. Is there a way to post pictures on here? I was going to post a couple so you could see there seems to be no yellow or green looking stuff. Thanks

Is the thermal unit tight to the metal cover?Are the wires tight onto the unit?Is the stack clean including the burner pipe located inside the stack? These button style thermal units are readily available for replacement.thermal fuse

The thermal unit seems to be tight to the metal cover.The wires are tight on the unit.The stack seems to be clean. I would have to take it apart to look at burner pipe. Right? I am going to try to put a pic on here so you can see what you think. I did notice it seems like the top of the stack is not clipped in like the bottom is. It looks like it should be clipped in like the bottom. Should I take the stack apart some to see if there is any yellow junk in there? Thanks

No, the inner pipe would or may have carbon build up.It is the small by-metal thermostat similar to one I linked?

I tried posting a pic from the info I found on here. It will not let me post a pic. It keeps saying your post has invalid formatting.

new members normally cannot post photos

Dometic fridge RM2652 tripping thermal sensor | Good Sam Community

enblethen
Nomad
Jun 12, 2023
Doesn't matter whether you did or not! It still is in recall! That could be why you didn't get notice!
rvman69
Explorer
Jun 12, 2023
Any opinions out there as if you think the cooling unit is bad? I need to order a cooling unit if it is determined bad. We are suppose to go camping at the end of the month. I am sure I can do it. I have been watching videos on replacing them. Also any suggestions on where to get the replacement cooling unit? Thanks
enblethen
Nomad
Jun 12, 2023
Ryman69
Compare your last photo of burner shield to the same shield in JBarca's second photo. This could be your problem.
It doesn't look to be a bad cooling unit. More of a venting issue.
Another item to check is the baffle. It is in the 3/4 inch pipe inside the stack above the burner. Take a short piece of stiff wire, push it up into stack three four inches a rattle the baffle.
Crappy video of Baffle
rvman69
Explorer
Jun 12, 2023
So are you thinking the baffle could be clogged up. So the heat vents through the baffle on AC or gas correct? Thanks
rvman69
Explorer
Jun 12, 2023
Is the baffle only for propane operation or can it effect the AC operation also? Thanks
rvman69
Explorer
Jun 12, 2023
You know there was a mud dauber nest in the burner cover when I removed it.
dougrainer
Nomad
Jun 12, 2023
IF your refer was new AFTER 2004, then the recall is NOT needed. The Thermas disc was one part of the recall, while the Flame wire was the 2nd if needed. REgardless, IF your unit is a leaker, then it is toast. Recall did NOT replace leaked cooling units. FOR 24 HOURS ONLY. Connect the 2 leads of the 120 heat element to a 120 extension cord. Run 24 hours. NO MORE. If the CU is bad(leaker) then you will not have cooling.
0 to 10 degrees in the freezer BELOW 38 degrees in the lower refer
IF you have a leaker, odds are the ammonia has lost its pressure and there is no danger of a fire. The fires only happened when on LP.

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoor/lp/refrigerator-recall
rvman69
Explorer
Jun 13, 2023
Ok so I just hook the two leads from the heating element to an extension cord. Does it matter how the leads are hooked up polarity wise? Do I leave the refrigerator off or does it need to be turned on? I will test the baffle with a stiff wire and see if I can get anything out of it and if it rattles. Then I will blow it out with air compressor. Then I will hook it up to extension cord. I will wait until in the morning so I can be around it for several hours after I hook it up. Is there anything I need to really watch for while it is hooked up. Thanks
enblethen
Nomad
Jun 13, 2023
Doug is talking about the 120-volt element connected to extension cord. Polarity doesn't matter.
rvman69
Explorer
Jun 13, 2023
Yeah I knew he was talking about the 120 volt element. I just wanted to make sure. Which after I typed it I was like no way it would matter. You know there is no way every outlet in these camp grounds are wired correctly. Thanks

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Dometic fridge RM2652 tripping thermal sensor

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