Dometic fridge will not kick back onI

Update.... when I got home, I sprayed the circuit board with electronics cleaner, cleaned the plugins on the board, stripped new wire for the 12 volt block by the fridge, took battery off tested good and clean the contacts. Now with trailer plugged in I get a constant 13.6 at the battery and I've had the fridge on lp and 120 for the past 7 days with zero issues...

Alright I will check tomorrow. I didnt know that if the battery was charged the converter would still be trying to charge it. could the new battery be bad? The panel states 1/3 charged. Even last year it said that.

Put the tester ON the CONVERTER.

AND hold it there after it reaches what it is supposed to put out to insure it's not going way over too.

Mkos1980 wrote:
I pit a multi meter on the battery and it was bouncing between 12.2 and 13.6 meaning the converter was working?

NO....

Converter should supply 13.2V DC MINIMUM and it wouldn't be bouncing around.

Appears your converter is failing...........bet you have high AC Ripple on DC system

I pit a multi meter on the battery and it was bouncing between 12.2 and 13.6 meaning the converter was working?

IF you are POSITIVE there is no 120 power interruption, then the Control module board is bad. Replace it. Doug

Mkos1980 wrote:
I have a 03 Springdale with a dometic fridge and seem to be having trouble with it. Out of storage I fired it up to test it out and all was ok. Went a week later to pre chill it for a trip and I came out the next morning to the "check light. I turned it off and back on and away I went again. Found it odd it would kick off esp with full propane tanks. This time I put it on auto. Came our 3 hours later and the check lights back on. It shouldn't be looking for gas esp since the trailers plugged in. Turn it back off and on and it resets itself. It seems every 3 hours it

kicks off and doesn't know how to start itself back up

unless I turn it off and back on regardless if it's 120 or lp. Thoughts?

I don't know about your RV but on mine and many RV's without an inverter the fridge needs DC power to run the thermostats. No or low DC and it can NOT turn back on. Makes no difference if you are plugged into ac shore power.

Mine would come on and like yours I'd find it shut off. That's because I had low DC power. And it will run till it hits temp and then when it shuts off it doesn't have the DC power to turn the thermostat to turn back on.

I also at the same time had my AC unit doing the same thing.

3 repair guys later and $$$. I was informed that both the AC and Fridge have to have DC power for their thermostats. :R

Check that your converter is putting out the correct amps or that it is even working.

My converter was working but putting out mega amps and boiling my battery then not working etc etc. One capacitor looked like it was shot with a 22.

Our friend, RV Tech and contributor Chris Bryant has a lot of manuals on his website. You'll need to ID your Model Number go get into the right generation of AES (Automatic Electronic System) and see the troubleshooting.
Good advice anyway: Always post Make, Model, Year, whatever nomenclature you have on something like a vehicle, appliance, generator, etc.

Mkos1980 wrote:
To knock off number 2 can I plug the fridge to an extension cord and plug in right to the house and run a deep cycle battery to the fridge bypassing the converter all together? I can do that at home.

YES.......
Supply the fridge DC from a know good source vs from converter while using electric heat element

If it was number 1that means I would have to have a bunch of momentary losses and no propane lol.