Dometic Fridge Won't Run on AC
I replaced my board several yrs ago with a Dinosaur P-711 due to a propane igniter issue. My son moved into it for about 6 months. As he's out now I'm going through the camper and found that the fridg...
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If his control panel inside the rig is lit, then he's got 12v, probably from the power converter when he's on AC.
Even when AC is present at the fridge, I believe it's possible to tell the fridge to NOT switch to AC at the control panel inside, even when AC power is supplied. You can force it to stay on propane. Make sure this is not the case. Depress the button that manually switches from propane to AC.
I have a P-711 board. Make sure that your J7 and J8 connections are sound on the board. If you have the knowledge, you can trace these to the AC heating element and see if power is going to it all along it's path.
You might also have a thermal cutoff fuse that was part of a recall on a number of Dometic fridges in the early 2000s; maybe earlier or later, I dont know. But this fuse is usually located against the back wall of the outside fridge compartment. It is a piece of metal that has two screws into the back wall. This piece of metal has some "fingers" that hold the thermal cutoff fuse within some insulation. You will see wires running through the "fingers".
Test for continuity through this fuse by either testing at the ends of the wires (can remember where they terminate) or by exposing the fuse and testing it individually. There should be continuity through it.
I always assumed that if the T-cutoff fuse is blown, the fridge would not work on propane, either, but who knows? Not me.
You can also trace the wires leading to the AC heating element that is inside the chimney/flue, whatever it is called.
I'm no repairman, either. Just some things I learned while installing my Dinosaur board.
Even when AC is present at the fridge, I believe it's possible to tell the fridge to NOT switch to AC at the control panel inside, even when AC power is supplied. You can force it to stay on propane. Make sure this is not the case. Depress the button that manually switches from propane to AC.
I have a P-711 board. Make sure that your J7 and J8 connections are sound on the board. If you have the knowledge, you can trace these to the AC heating element and see if power is going to it all along it's path.
You might also have a thermal cutoff fuse that was part of a recall on a number of Dometic fridges in the early 2000s; maybe earlier or later, I dont know. But this fuse is usually located against the back wall of the outside fridge compartment. It is a piece of metal that has two screws into the back wall. This piece of metal has some "fingers" that hold the thermal cutoff fuse within some insulation. You will see wires running through the "fingers".
Test for continuity through this fuse by either testing at the ends of the wires (can remember where they terminate) or by exposing the fuse and testing it individually. There should be continuity through it.
I always assumed that if the T-cutoff fuse is blown, the fridge would not work on propane, either, but who knows? Not me.
You can also trace the wires leading to the AC heating element that is inside the chimney/flue, whatever it is called.
I'm no repairman, either. Just some things I learned while installing my Dinosaur board.
