Dometic Fridge

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I have never been happy how fridge worked on 12v. I didn't know they still made them. It is either 110vac or propane.

Which Dometic model do you have?
IS your fridge a 3 way.......runs on 110V AC (heat element), on propane or 12V DC (heat element)?
Unusual for 2013 new larger fridge to be a 3 way??

On DC....what do you mean? DC heater element or DC and using propane?
12V DC is used on electric and propane modes....control circuit/gas valve/spark control

DC heater element....that 'mode' is mainly for when traveling and to just maintain a cold fridge vs getting one cold.
The DC heater element is a low wattage one due to being 12V DC. So it's heat output is much less.
Have you checked IF element is bad?

So what DC mode is causing problems......propane heating or DC heater element?

Thank you for the replies. I will have to go out to the trailer tomorrow (Saturday) and get the details of the model it is.

Also, try and get the details in what mode your fridge works :).
I mean, in propane or DC. Because it does - usually - draw a little DC current when running in propane mode as well.

In my limited experience with fivers, the Charge Line from the Truck (via the Seven-Pin Connector) delivers Very Little Power back to the Trailer. I guess Wire Size and Length contributes to this, and maybe the Truck's Voltage Regulator senses that ITS Battery (Under the Hood of the Truck) has been charged so it tapers voltage down to less than ideal for the long wire run to the Trailer.
What I'm saying is if we'd been dry camping, could drive all day, hundreds of miles, and NOT top off the Trailer's Battery Charge. What that implies is even if your Fridge is Three-Way (120VAC, LPG, 12VDC), running it on 12VDC will draw the battery voltage down and the charge line won't restore it. Low Voltage means Less Wattage means Less Cooling.

7-pin truck connector is for very low current, I think 10A max. For charging the battery it's usually OK, but not for running anything but trailer signals. Fridge in propane mode draws about 3A at 12V, so it still should be OK through 7-pin. I don't think your problem has anything to do with 7-pin or truck battery. If my memory doesn't fail me, that thin area between fridge and freezer has a door defroster wiring there or something like that. Open it and see if there is something wrong. Disable that defroster maybe.