Temperature was 115 for 3 days and the fridge stopped cooling but the freezer was working ok. Now after the big heat has gone the fridge is working again. Local rv store felt the issue was overheating and is going to see if the cooling unit needs to be replaced. This is something we have never experience before and have been rving since 1996. But never this hot. Dometic 12 ft. 2019 fifth but used one trip. Probably will get it tested . Anybody experienced this issue?chevman

115*F for 3 daysFreezer cooling but food compartment wasn'tI would say that was an obstructed cooling unitBUT you went on to say that after the big wave passed the fridge starting cooling again (as in the food compartment got cold also?)That suggest big lack of AIRFLOW/DRAFT across backside of fridge to remove the heatHot air has a hard time absorbing more heat so heat generated by fridge was not fully being removed in sufficient vloume to have enough cold coolant to absorb heat removed from freezer AND food compartmentFANS at top to PULL air in/push it outProper clearances across backside of fridge...less then 2"Baffles to direct airflow if clearances are to wideTest:Unplug thermistor and let fridge run for 12 hrsFreezer and food compartment get COLD....cooling unit is functioningHEAT has to be removed..airflow/Draft

The cooling unit is just fine or the freezer would thaw.The unit simple reached the limit of cool.. The "Myth" (Global warming) is now at the point where absorption units can be overcome.Thigs that might helpSHADE!!! This is the #1 way to help it Shade the area of the RV where the Fridge lies. Awning. Pop Up Shelter. anything to shade it.Cleaning. At the top of the fridge. outside, is a "heat Exchanger" (The Radiator on your car or coils (Both condenser and evaporative) on an A/C are heat exchangers and this is not different in construction... Crud can build up under it.. Remove the top cap and blow down.. Keep the pressure low and volume high if you can (Do not want to bend fins) Open the lower access panel too before you do this. A fan (or two) blowing UP through the heat exchanger. NOTE it's a bit pricy but they sell a replacement "Cap" (for units that "Exhaust" Through theroof) Solar panel and solar powered fan to Suck it up

wa8yxm wrote:The cooling unit is just fine or the freezer would thaw.The unit simple reached the limit of cool.. The "Myth" (Global warming) is now at the point where absorption units can be overcome.Thigs that might helpSHADE!!! This is the #1 way to help it Shade the area of the RV where the Fridge lies. Awning. Pop Up Shelter. anything to shade it.Cleaning. At the top of the fridge. outside, is a "heat Exchanger" (The Radiator on your car or coils (Both condenser and evaporative) on an A/C are heat exchangers and this is not different in construction... Crud can build up under it.. Remove the top cap and blow down.. Keep the pressure low and volume high if you can (Do not want to bend fins) Open the lower access panel too before you do this. A fan (or two) blowing UP through the heat exchanger. NOTE it's a bit pricy but they sell a replacement "Cap" (for units that "Exhaust" Through theroof) Solar panel and solar powered fan to Suck it upIF THE COOLING UNIT WAS BLOCKED, THE FREEZER WILL STILL GET BELOW 32 DEGREES. IT WOULD NOT "THAW". Doug

Is the refer in a Slide room? When you say it started working again, THAT is a subjective opinion. What was the freezer temp? What was the actual lower refer temp? The temp for the lower is to be taken in a glass or water after 24 hours on MAX cold setting. Cooling units can be harmed 2 ways. Run OFF LEVEL for over 24 hours. OR, IF you have severe heat and inadequate or NO cooling air up the rear coils, you can "BAKE" a cooling unit which the result is the same as OFF LEVEL. Then you have to replace the Cooling Unit. Baking a cooling unit takes less than 24 hours if NO AIR FLOW AT ALL. If you had air flow but the 115 heat caused a flow problem, I will bet you are OK. Doug

dougrainer wrote:*snip*Cooling units can be harmed 2 ways. Run OFF LEVEL for over 24 hours. OR … *snip* Not to hijack this thread but this is the first I have heard of a 24 hour limit. I have been under the impression short periods of off level accumulating over time would do it. Such as an hour off level per day several times is just as bad.There are times during a travel day we'll stop for a break and I'm off level, usually nose high. I'll turn off the fridge while parked for an hour or so. Am I being a knucklehead for doing this?Thanks

Dometic issue | Good Sam Community

dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 12, 2021
Gjac wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
Gjac wrote:
Would a cheaper solution to ARP be to install a Bimetal disc thermostat that shuts off at 200F and closes at 180F? These limit switches are used as a safety device in gas fired furnaces and cost less than $5.00. I am sure the ARP does more, but just wondering what others think.

The average flue temp is around 275 to 350 degrees. Doug

The Norcold recall trips at 700 degrees.
I was using the temps that Otrfun posted, where he posted that normal temps were between 180-190F and ARP shuts down at 217F. What ever the correct temps maybe my question is wouldn't a cheaper solution to the ARP be a Bimetal disc thermostat?

The temp I posted is the Temp of the STEEL flue tube itself, not the outside of the Insulated jacket cover. The Norcold Recall sensor is secured to the inside steel of the flue tube. Your temps would be correct for the outside cover. Doug
Gjac
Explorer III
Jul 12, 2021
dougrainer wrote:
Gjac wrote:
Would a cheaper solution to ARP be to install a Bimetal disc thermostat that shuts off at 200F and closes at 180F? These limit switches are used as a safety device in gas fired furnaces and cost less than $5.00. I am sure the ARP does more, but just wondering what others think.

The average flue temp is around 275 to 350 degrees. Doug

The Norcold recall trips at 700 degrees.
I was using the temps that Otrfun posted, where he posted that normal temps were between 180-190F and ARP shuts down at 217F. What ever the correct temps maybe my question is wouldn't a cheaper solution to the ARP be a Bimetal disc thermostat?
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 11, 2021
Gjac wrote:
Would a cheaper solution to ARP be to install a Bimetal disc thermostat that shuts off at 200F and closes at 180F? These limit switches are used as a safety device in gas fired furnaces and cost less than $5.00. I am sure the ARP does more, but just wondering what others think.

The average flue temp is around 275 to 350 degrees. Doug

The Norcold recall trips at 700 degrees.
Gjac
Explorer III
Jul 11, 2021
Would a cheaper solution to ARP be to install a Bimetal disc thermostat that shuts off at 200F and closes at 180F? These limit switches are used as a safety device in gas fired furnaces and cost less than $5.00. I am sure the ARP does more, but just wondering what others think.
otrfun
Explorer II
Jul 06, 2021
For those that want to track how well their frig is working (realtime data plus accumulated past data), I'd highly recommend checking out one of these Govee Bluetooth temp/humidity sensors for use inside your fridge. It gives you the realtime temp and humidity, plus it stores all your temp/humidity readings for the last year or so. All the historical data is very easy to access using the Govee BT app. Easy to track any long-term cooling trends that may develop. Also very easy to track how your fridge handles cool-downs/recoveries under different ambient conditions. Good bluetooth range. Great price (~$10), too.

x1 with what Doug Rainer suggested: install an ARP Fridge Defender. $150-$200 is cheap insurance to automatically protect your $1500-$2000 fridge from overtemp boiler conditions. One of the big side benefits of using the ARP is the ability to view flue temps realtime (temps typically hover around 180-190c; ARP shuts down fridge at 217c). Easy to tell how well your fridge is working (on 120vac, propane, and 12vdc) based on the flue temps. Easy to see when it's time to clean the propane jet/orifice (flue temps drop on propane). Also allows action to be taken before the boiler gets too hot and the ARP is forced to shut down the fridge (temps spike upwards within a few min.).
larry_barnhart
Explorer
Jul 06, 2021
The fridge is a 12 ft double door and this fifth was used on one trip of 1000 miles. I don't think he did anything. 4 fans are noisy. chevman
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 06, 2021
larry barnhart wrote:
Doug it looks like what you said is the way we have. 4 cooling fans below the fins and the air is directed to blow up the fins and then out the top . the fridge is 39 degrees and is empty the freezer is 13 degrees with some frozen food in the freezer. We have cooler temperature's now under 100. Chevman

4 cooling fans??????? I have never seen more than 2. Is it possible a previous owner installed extra fans? Doug
larry_barnhart
Explorer
Jul 05, 2021
Doug it looks like what you said is the way we have. 4 cooling fans below the fins and the air is directed to blow up the fins and then out the top . the fridge is 39 degrees and is empty the freezer is 13 degrees with some frozen food in the freezer. We have cooler temperature's now under 100. Chevman
larry_barnhart
Explorer
Jul 05, 2021
thanks for the new information Doug. going out to look at the top.

chevman
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 05, 2021
Last, the ARP device is something that all RVer's need to install. It stops harmful off level operation automatically so you do not have to manually monitor it. Doug

https://www.arprv.com/products.php

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