CrossCountryNomad wrote:
Golden_HVAC wrote:
I am glad that my refrigerator has the smaller wattage heating element, and has never had a leak.
Could someone explain how I could identify if I have the lower or higher wattage heating element?
A clamp on ampmeter will tell the truth about how many watts the heating element is using. 3 amps at 120 volts = 360 watts - the larger element. 2.7 amps at 120 volts = 325 watts - the smaller electric element.
By running my refrigerator on my inverter, I know it draws 25 amps at 12 volts, close enough to the 300 watt rating. My E-Meter is pretty accurate at measuring the amperage.
BTW: In case you are not running 120 volts, at 110 volts, the larger element will draw 2.75 amps using 302 watts, while at 125 volts it will draw 3.1 amps using 390 watts. 130 volts will start to cause problems - 3.25 amps and consume 422 watts.
The 325 watt element will use 2.5 amps at 110 volts = 277 watts. At 125 volts = 2.86 amps and 358 watts. At 130 volts = 3 amps and 390 watts.
The BTU output of all electric heaters is 3.4 Btu's per watt used. Thus higher voltage will increase the BTU input and boiler temperatures dramtically. If the refrigerator is always kept level, then there should not be a boiler overheating problem, as plenty of ammonia solution will return to the boiler. However when run off level for extended time - . . . The boiler running out of ammonia solution does cause many problems. Shutting off the refrigerator and driving around hte block will return the ammonia mixture back to the boiler and disolve most of the ammonia crystals that tend to collect in bad places during a overheat situation.
Remember that running your (now repaired) refrigerator on gas will provide more meat input, thus better cooling capacity during warm summer days.
Dometic is suggesting not running recall effected units on gas - to eleminate the flame near a potnetial leak. Dometic suggests using the low wattage 12 volt element.
As for how long to discharge a 100 amp hour battery with the 10 or so amp 12 volt element? I would say 10 hours if the refrigerator was the only load, but given that other loads will be present, the battery might last 4 - 5 hours. The charge circuit in most RV trailers is not large enough to provide adaquate amperage to run the refrigerator on 12 volts. Motorhomes should be better off.
I am with most fulltimers - I still need to run my refrigerator, and will continue to take the risk of using it. (mine is not being recalled, I have a 1996 refrigerator) However if anyone smells ammonia (think Windex bottle spilled on the floor X 10 stronger) shut off the refrigerator right away - no smoking near it, wait to run the water heater for a while, ect.
Fred.
