After reading all of the post on the "Dometic Recall" I decided to try installing a transformer (per the post below) to lower the voltage going to the heating element. I wanted to replace the element but the local RV dealer only stocked the new part# from Dometic and I didn't trust it considering the stock element was stamped 325watts and had 38.9 ohms resistance. I called RV Mobile this morning and ordered a new element and asked the salesman to check the resistance before completing the order. I got a call 30 minutes later from RV Mobile to let me know that they had just received a new shipment of elements and the wire color had been changed and the resistance on all were 39-41 ohms so I cancelled the order. I feel that the metal used in the cooling system is at fault but I also think that the heating element that is over powered only aggravates the defect in the welds. I installed the transformer (got it @ radio shack) today and it worked great. I also switched the position of the heating element to the 12 volt side of the tube. My element has 38.9 ohms resistance and the refrigerator runs on LP or 115-120 volts & 2.9 amps. After installing the transformer the voltage applied to the heating element was 113 volts almost a 7 volt drop! Volts squared divided by resistance = watts so I was running @370:E watts and after the transformer install I am @ 328 watts. The transformer cost $10.00 and was easy to install. The new elements can run you 30.00-70.00 dollars + shipping. The refrigerator still cools great. Thanks to all of the people that took time post on this very important issue. :)
Mark W.
WilleyB wrote:
Hi trouble1263, and thank you for your kind thought.
For those members who would like to do the transformer fix :W I'll try to clean up my drawing and terminology. As LScamper has suggested an autotransformer is an expensive item indeed. What is proposed here is a method to compensate for, by lowering the wattage of an underrated 120 volt element. Namely those heating elements with a resistance below 40 ohms.
What is proposed is a Radio Shack #: 273-1511 or Circuit City #: 2731511 Transformer
Transformer: primary is 120 VAC, HD type. Volts: 12.6V CT. 3.0A. in either case the price is about $10. The 120 volt PRIMARY winding has two black wires that are smaller in diameter than the three wires of the 12.6 volt SECONDARY winding. The CT in the "12,6 CT" stands for "Center Tap" meaning that the 12.6 volt winding is equally divided. There are two yellow wires which are the 12.6 volt leads with a black lead from the Center Tap and from the black lead to either yellow lead we would measure 6.3 volts while in operation.
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The connections:
Connect one wire of the fridge 120v element to a transformer Primary wire as shown (like Red wire shown) and to one side of the 120 volt line (AC black wire). The other element wire will be connect to the other transformer Primary wire. Then connect the white 120v AC supply (from the control board where the element is connected to now) wire to the black Center Tap wire of the Secondary winding. Then connect one of the 12.6 volt secondary wires (yellow A or B) to the point marked "C" as shown on the diagram. These connections make the transformer operate like a step down transformer in that now there are many more windings across the 120 volts, by using only the primary leads as an output the voltage will be reduced to about 113.7 volts. (120 - 6.3= 113.7) If you have less you can connect point "C" to the opposite side of the secondary.
Unused leads should be taped (insulated as voltage will be present) In operation the Transformer will be warm to the touch, but it should not real hot. I anyone wishes to do this instead of replacing the heating element and wishes to ask questions " go for it " if can help I'll be glad to.
Willis
My thanks to LScamper for pointing out my omission that the 120V for the circuit comes from the circuit board and not directly from the line voltage :o
