My neighbor also can't get her fridge to cool after leaving it for 10 months. It barely gets to freezing here, if at all (Oregon Coast) but is there a chance that just leaving it off for 10 months could cause the chemicals to separate like they do with freezing? I had mine freeze in Montana years ago, took it out, turned it upside down overnight and it fired right back up the next morning. It's worked ever since...11 years and counting... :) The other thought was the circuit board. Found a burned out fuse on it and replaced it as well as another fuse in sort of push-together (from both sides) case that was also in the back of the fridge compartment near the circuit board but still no cooling. I ordered a new board to try that option before moving on to more drastic tactics.We both could swear that the freezer was getting a bit chilly today after changing the fuses, the floor of it especially, but it didn't continue to cool any more. Any ideas?Thanks...

More information please.Running on electric? Propane?Battery voltage?

pianotuna wrote:More information please.Running on electric? Propane?Battery voltage?Oh, sorry...actually, yes, she had it running last week on propane...but it doesn't cool on electric. If there was an issue with the board could it run on one but not the other? Do the chemicals in the coils need to be mixed for it to work on both or does that just affect one or the other?Battery voltage...hmmm...don't know yet. The furnace runs so I would think the battery voltage was ok. Thanks!

Also, the fridge doesn't seem to go into fault mode -- the "check" function doesn't light up when it's set on "electric" so it seems like all is well...it just doesn't cool.

If it cools on propane, but not on electric, it shouldn't be a cooling unit problem in the sense of the chemicals not being appropriately mixed and/or blockages. What you describe points to the electric heating element not heating or not getting hot enough. It could be an issue with the control board, the element itself, or AC power to the refrigerator. Is it gas/electric or gas/battery/electric? If it has a battery mode, does it work on that setting? The control board will use 12V whether the refrigerator has a battery mode or not since it must operate in gas mode without AC.Assuming it doesn't have a battery mode, the first/easiest thing to check is verifying AC at the outlet in the outside compartment at the back of refrigerator.

happy2rv wrote:Assuming it doesn't have a battery mode, the first/easiest thing to check is verifying AC at the outlet in the outside compartment at the back of refrigerator.Ok thanks...you mean just plug anything in the plug behind the refrigerator to make sure it works? No battery power I don't think. I've ordered a new board so we'll check that on Tuesday. Good to know about the chemicals...not really up for taking another fridge out. :)

Dometic refrigerator left off for 10 mo. not working

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Sep 22, 2019
10 months on? Was it level for those 10 months? If not, it probably has a clogged tube.
ksg5000
Explorer
Sep 22, 2019
Check the fuse on the control board - if that blows you lose electricity to AC heating element.
happy2rv
Explorer
Sep 22, 2019
If you have a voltmeter and are comfortable using it, you can check the voltage at the outlet. If not, yes most refrigerators have a standard 110V outlet you should be able to unplug the refrigerator and plug something reasonably light duty like a lamp or fan into it to verify it has 110V.

If it doesn't, check for tripped breakers. It may be easier to check the breakers first.
cannesdo
Explorer
Sep 22, 2019
happy2rv wrote:

Assuming it doesn't have a battery mode, the first/easiest thing to check is verifying AC at the outlet in the outside compartment at the back of refrigerator.

Ok thanks...you mean just plug anything in the plug behind the refrigerator to make sure it works?

No battery power I don't think. I've ordered a new board so we'll check that on Tuesday. Good to know about the chemicals...not really up for taking another fridge out. :)
happy2rv
Explorer
Sep 22, 2019
If it cools on propane, but not on electric, it shouldn't be a cooling unit problem in the sense of the chemicals not being appropriately mixed and/or blockages.

What you describe points to the electric heating element not heating or not getting hot enough. It could be an issue with the control board, the element itself, or AC power to the refrigerator. Is it gas/electric or gas/battery/electric? If it has a battery mode, does it work on that setting? The control board will use 12V whether the refrigerator has a battery mode or not since it must operate in gas mode without AC.

Assuming it doesn't have a battery mode, the first/easiest thing to check is verifying AC at the outlet in the outside compartment at the back of refrigerator.
cannesdo
Explorer
Sep 22, 2019
Also, the fridge doesn't seem to go into fault mode -- the "check" function doesn't light up when it's set on "electric" so it seems like all is well...it just doesn't cool.
cannesdo
Explorer
Sep 22, 2019
pianotuna wrote:
More information please.

Running on electric? Propane?

Battery voltage?

Oh, sorry...actually, yes, she had it running last week on propane...but it doesn't cool on electric. If there was an issue with the board could it run on one but not the other? Do the chemicals in the coils need to be mixed for it to work on both or does that just affect one or the other?

Battery voltage...hmmm...don't know yet. The furnace runs so I would think the battery voltage was ok.

Thanks!
pianotuna
Nomad III
Sep 22, 2019
More information please.

Running on electric? Propane?

Battery voltage?

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Dometic refrigerator left off for 10 mo. not working

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