Dometic RM2354 3 CF 3-way not switching off DC

It helps when the switches work as designed and the fridge doesn't arbitrarily decide to switch from AC to DC power.

patperry2766 wrote:
Now it's working properly....uugghh

Helps when the DC mode is turned OFF

Now it's working properly....uugghh

patperry2766 wrote:
This fridge has an auto selector where I can select either AC, DC or propane. It is stuck on DC and I can't get it to switch to an alternative power source.

Yes, my inverter has both fuses and breakers. When I turn the fridge off, the inverter fan stops spinning, but when I turn it back on, it defaults to DC power and the inverter fan start going again.

Auto Mode will only swap between AC and GAS
DC Mode is manually selected.

Can you manually select DC......turn it ON/OFF?
DC Mode will over-ride AC/Gas modes so DC ON/OFF must be OFF!
Can you place fridge in 'Auto' ? Place it on 'GAS' ?

IF upper panel malfunctions the fridge will select power source to keep fridge operating.
AC power first, then DC power, Then Gas. (1 of 2 limp modes)


And instead of 'inverter' you most likely mean 'converter'
(Inverter has DC input from battery and then AC output to run AC powered equipment....outlets etc.
Converter has an AC input and then DC output to charge batteries and run DC powered equipment..lights, water pump, furnace, control circuits etc)

patperry2766 wrote:
This fridge has an auto selector where I can select either AC, DC or propane. It is stuck on DC and I can't get it to switch to an alternative power source.

Yes, my inverter has both fuses and breakers. When I turn the fridge off, the inverter fan stops spinning, but when I turn it back on, it defaults to DC power and the inverter fan start going again.

I will state again. You have a CONVERTER, not an Inverter. Converters take 120 ac and convert to 12 volt dc. Inverters take 12 volt dc and INVERT to 120 ac current. The CONVERTER fan spins because the HI 12 volt load caused by the 12 volt side of the refer. That indicates you do indeed have 12 volt power to the refer. You CANNOT run the refer on 12 volt ONLY. It requires too much DC power and is designed to be on 12 volt only when you are in transit. The 12 volt element maintains the existing cold in the refer and is designed to do ONLY that. You must run on LP or 120 when cooling. Since you cannot get it out of 12 volt only mode, the only 2 items would be the inside control button assbly or the outside rear control module. I would suspect the outside control module. Doug

This fridge has an auto selector where I can select either AC, DC or propane. It is stuck on DC and I can't get it to switch to an alternative power source.

Yes, my inverter has both fuses and breakers. When I turn the fridge off, the inverter fan stops spinning, but when I turn it back on, it defaults to DC power and the inverter fan start going again.

DC uses gas, unless you have a boat type fridge which uses a lot of DC and no gas.

I assume your 'inverter' is the CONverter with the fuses (DC) / breakers (AC)

By 'power down' I assume you mean the fan running in the converter? That would be normal under no load.

Does the fridge have a selector 'GAS ONLY'? Is that selector pressed?

1. You have a CONVERTER, not an Inverter,
2. The LED lights light up when either the fuse is blown or pulled and there is a 12 volt LOAD on that circuit. So, if the LED for the refer did NOT light up when the fuse was pulled, that indicates the refer is NOT connected to the 12 volt power fuse. Find out if there is 12 volts to the rear of the refer. It requires 12 volts to operate whether on 12 volt/120 /lp. Doug