I have an older RM2652 (product number: 921 14 40-02 if that helps). It will run on gas just fine, but when I try to run it on AC the 5A fuse that leads to the AC heating element will blow. I’m trying to determine if I need to replace the circuit board or the heating element. Or possibly something else? If the parts weren’t so costly I’d just shotgun it and replace both components, but I need to be deliberate about what I replace with this. Thanks in advance for any help!

Unplug the 120v input cord from the circuit board and check that cord. It may be shorted somewhere. Check where the green wire from it is screwed to the chassis by the plug to the board. Un-do the 120v element from the board and check that. You can run the element directly using a made-up adapter by-passing the board to see if it heats up ok. All the board does is provide a thermostat to control the heat element to be on and off.

Just to update: I checked the heating element and it’s 37.4 ohms. The spec in the manual says 44. Am I likely too far out of spec?

itsjustjer wrote:Just to update: I checked the heating element and it’s 37.4 ohms. The spec in the manual says 44. Am I likely too far out of spec?I would say so.

If unplugging the heating element stops the short...no?Then unplug the refrigerator then unplug the harness to the heating element

5A Fuse is for the 120VAC circuit on the circcuit bard and for the heater eleentUnplyg the element leads ....replace the 5A fuse and turn fridge onFuse Blows.....circuit boardFuse doesn't blow........element (plug the leads back onto circuit board and see if the fuse blows)

Dometic RM2652 5A fuse keeps blowing | Good Sam Community

BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 10, 2020
Unplug the 120v input cord from the circuit board and check that cord. It may be shorted somewhere. Check where the green wire from it is screwed to the chassis by the plug to the board.

Un-do the 120v element from the board and check that. You can run the element directly using a made-up adapter by-passing the board to see if it heats up ok. All the board does is provide a thermostat to control the heat element to be on and off.
itsjustjer
Explorer
Jun 10, 2020
Just to update: I checked the heating element and it’s 37.4 ohms. The spec in the manual says 44. Am I likely too far out of spec?
stickdog
Explorer
Jun 10, 2020
itsjustjer wrote:
Just to update: I checked the heating element and it’s 37.4 ohms. The spec in the manual says 44. Am I likely too far out of spec?

I would say so.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jun 10, 2020
If unplugging the heating element stops the short...no?

Then unplug the refrigerator then unplug the harness to the heating element
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jun 11, 2020
5A Fuse is for the 120VAC circuit on the circcuit bard and for the heater eleent

Unplyg the element leads ....replace the 5A fuse and turn fridge on
Fuse Blows.....circuit board
Fuse doesn't blow........element (plug the leads back onto circuit board and see if the fuse blows)
enblethen
Nomad
Jun 11, 2020
Did you use an Ohm meter to check element to ground?
Relay on circuit board could be problem. You could pull circuit board. If relay is the issue there will be burnt area on back of board.
Resistance is not that far off. That much variation could be in different meters.
If you change out circuit board, I recommend a Dinosaur Electronics version.
Problem is between the 120 volt fuse and the element not in cord.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 11, 2020
enblethen wrote:
Did you use an Ohm meter to check element to ground?
Relay on circuit board could be problem. You could pull circuit board. If relay is the issue there will be burnt area on back of board.
Resistance is not that far off. That much variation could be in different meters.
If you change out circuit board, I recommend a Dinosaur Electronics version.
Problem is between the 120 volt fuse and the element not in cord.

Is that because if it were the cord it would pop the breaker for the receptacle the fridge is plugged into?
enblethen
Nomad
Jun 11, 2020
Yes, if it was in cord or input area of circuit board before the fuse, it would trip the breaker.
Yes, to BFL13, also
itsjustjer
Explorer
Jun 11, 2020
I unplugged the heating element and turned the fridge back on. The fuse did not blow and the volt meter showed 123v going to the fuse and the connection point for the heating element. That would mean the heating element is the problem, right?
enblethen
Nomad
Jun 11, 2020
Yes, but check with Ohm meter for continuity between ground and the leads. Commonly, the element goes to ground where it enters the stack.