Hi,I rebuilt the fridge about 4 years ago with an arctic cold ammonia coil and it has been working great.Prior to I installed a dinosaur electronics board which is still solid.The other day I noticed my fridge would not run on GAS (propane) so I disassembled it. I called Dinosaur electronics to see if perhaps they thought I might need a board and for diagnostic tips.I came to the conclusion the brass gas valve was not working properly. I removed it to clean the jet and I sprayed some brake kleen in to the valve and put 12v power to it to cycle the valve repeatedly.I put it back together and it worked. Since then I ordered a new valve but am leaving Sunday on a trip and hope it works the duration.Questions:Has anyone experienced something similar ?What purpose does the small foam plug serve that is in the inlet valve orifice....diffuser?ThanksJoe

If I understand what your referring to correctly, that metallic foam core in the orifice is a filter to keep the tiny little hole from plugging. I’ve never had a problem with the gas valve on mine. Is the solenoid working? Can you hear it click when you turn it to gas?:):)

NRALIFR wrote:If I understand what your referring to correctly, that metallic foam core in the orifice is a filter to keep the tiny little hole from plugging. I’ve never had a problem with the gas valve on mine. Is the solenoid working? Can you hear it click when you turn it to gas?:):)Yes I believe the foam you are referring to is what I am describing.To be honest I didn't hear the solenoid clicking (it's prominent) over the igniter ticking and it had power. I removed the assembly in hopes I could bench test it and possibly free up the plunger if it was stuck.Not sure if me spraying brake kleen into the valve and cycling it with 12V power freed it up, but it appears to be working now.

Sounds like you’re on top of it. Could also be a bad power connection to the solenoid. By removing the wires and putting them back on you essentially cleaned them. :):)

Not clear. "gas valve" is miles from the "jet" (orifice?) You don't need to remove the gas valve to clean the orifice to the "burner" (thing with slots the flame comes out of)You can cycle a gas valve turning its power off and on. I had my gas valve get stuck open on my water heater and posted recently how I bench tested it. It can get stuck closed or it won't open for some electrical reason too.

NRALIFR wrote:Sounds like you’re on top of it. Could also be a bad power connection to the solenoid. By removing the wires and putting them back on you essentially cleaned them. :):)Very possible my friend. I swear if there isn't one thing it is another LOL :WThanks for the reply

Dometic RM3862 question | Good Sam Community

BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 06, 2020
Well now that is all clear, at least the OP says his is all working now, so he can go on his trip with full confidence. :)

Sorry for my own confusion :( Language differences I guess.
NRALIFR
Explorer
Jun 05, 2020
Here’s a picture of the gas valve and burner assembly. The orifice is at the end of the brass valve.

:):)
joe_blow
Explorer
Jun 05, 2020
My assembly is identical to what NRALIFR
BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 05, 2020
I am confused, but here is a photo of what I think came off my old Dometic fridge. Shows the "gas solenoid valve assembly" and the "burner kit" which includes the "orifice kit"
NRALIFR
Explorer
Jun 05, 2020
Gas valve?

:):)
joe_blow
Explorer
Jun 05, 2020
BFL13 wrote:
Not clear. "gas valve" is miles from the "jet" (orifice?) You don't need to remove the gas valve to clean the orifice to the "burner" (thing with slots the flame comes out of)

You can cycle a gas valve turning its power off and on. I had my gas valve get stuck open on my water heater and posted recently how I bench tested it. It can get stuck closed or it won't open for some electrical reason too.

Not understanding what you wrote but my gas valve and jet are one unit about 4" in length and made of brass.

I initially removed the jet with no luck, so I decided to remove the assembly and mess with it in my hand.
joe_blow
Explorer
Jun 05, 2020
NRALIFR wrote:
Sounds like you’re on top of it. Could also be a bad power connection to the solenoid. By removing the wires and putting them back on you essentially cleaned them.

:):)

Very possible my friend. I swear if there isn't one thing it is another LOL :W

Thanks for the reply
BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 05, 2020
Not clear. "gas valve" is miles from the "jet" (orifice?) You don't need to remove the gas valve to clean the orifice to the "burner" (thing with slots the flame comes out of)

You can cycle a gas valve turning its power off and on. I had my gas valve get stuck open on my water heater and posted recently how I bench tested it. It can get stuck closed or it won't open for some electrical reason too.
NRALIFR
Explorer
Jun 05, 2020
Sounds like you’re on top of it. Could also be a bad power connection to the solenoid. By removing the wires and putting them back on you essentially cleaned them.

:):)
joe_blow
Explorer
Jun 05, 2020
NRALIFR wrote:
If I understand what your referring to correctly, that metallic foam core in the orifice is a filter to keep the tiny little hole from plugging.

I’ve never had a problem with the gas valve on mine. Is the solenoid working? Can you hear it click when you turn it to gas?

:):)

Yes I believe the foam you are referring to is what I am describing.

To be honest I didn't hear the solenoid clicking (it's prominent) over the igniter ticking and it had power. I removed the assembly in hopes I could bench test it and possibly free up the plunger if it was stuck.

Not sure if me spraying brake kleen into the valve and cycling it with 12V power freed it up, but it appears to be working now.