Golden_HVAC wrote:
You can locate the panel mounts in such a way that the "Holes" are under the solar panel once they are installed.
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The RV will use about 35 amp hours per day just to run the CO and propane detectors as well as the refrigerator.
Fred.
Yes. Some of my brackets are with holes under the panel, and this one is not because under the panel there was too many screws holding plywood to the rafter.
I don't know why explanations without pics are not clear - it's pretty simple actually. Fred's suggestions were a good guidance when I mounted my panel.
Here.Aluminum angle is 4x4 because there are 3" high plimbing vents under the panel. There are 6 anchor screws because the panel is big and heavy 250W, and I plan on tilting it when parked, so there is more wind resistance. There is rivet nut in the panel frame, so I only need to deal with the screw, no nuts or pin retainers in hard to reach space under the panel. For 100W flat install the OP can go with 2x2 angle and 2 anchor screws. Note that bracket is oriented parallel to the rear wall - this way the vertical leg of bracket is plumb. The roof is crowned so with bracket parallel to the sides it wouldn't be plumb and vertical walls of 2 brackets would not be parallel to each other. Also, with bracket parallel to the rear wall I could drive 3 anchor screws into the rafter rather than just in plywood - though for 100W panel this is less critical.
35 AH a day is a little high for fridge and detectors, but some trailers may draw that much. Mine draws 30 AH including most things that I need - fridge, detectors, lights, pumps, radio and laptop. Fridge and detector alone draw less than 20 AH. Only one of my detectors - the propane - runs on 12V, CO detector and smoke detector have their own AA batteries.
