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Hemling's avatar
Hemling
Explorer
Jun 14, 2022

E vs. D rated trailer tires

We are moving back to WI after 4 years of living in Miami and I'm making my list of items to address since my unit is 5 years old. One of those is tires. I still have the stock 'Trailer King" D rated tires, and will be changing them out. What exactly is the rationale behind going to an 'E' rated tire on a camper? Obviously more load carrying capacity I understand, but does it ride harder then too? I certainly don't need more jarring transmitted to the chassis. I feel like if you need the load carrying capabilities of a higher rated tire you might also be overloading the chassis. Is it just higher quality of tire? Kind of like going to an 'F' when an 'E' will do the job more comfortably. Is it just peace of mind / bragging rights?
  • Get the GY Endurance tires. Probably E rated depending on size. If the ride is bad at 80psi then drop it down to 70-75 psi. But I think it will ride better not worse. Higher margin of load rating will reduce the chance of tire failure. Most factory tires are very close to max rating and is part of the reason people have tire failures.
  • schlep1967 wrote:
    You will need to do some math. Look at the sidewall of your current tires for max weight capacity. It will look something like 2500 @ 60 max inflation. Take the Max number times the number of tires. In the example above 2500 x 4 = 10,000 lbs. If your trailer GVWR is less than the total amount you don't need a higher rated tire.


    One thing missing from the above is the hitch weight isn't riding on the tires.

    A 12k GVWR 5th wheel with 2500lb on the pin, is fine with 2500lb tires. as there will be at most 9500lb on the 4 tires (assuming you don't exceed GVWR).

    Moving up one notch on the tire ratings, is generally going to be fairly harmless. Jumping up multiple notches will do exactly what the OP is concerned about. There's going to be very little give in the tire and that will transfer to the suspension, frame and rest of the trailer.

    To give you an idea: If you've ever rode in a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup that's empty. The ride is very jarring over bumps (tires/suspension are very firm). Load up 1500-2000lb in the back and the ride smooths out a lot because the tires and suspension are absorbing rather than transmitting the forces.
  • You will need to do some math. Look at the sidewall of your current tires for max weight capacity. It will look something like 2500 @ 60 max inflation. Take the Max number times the number of tires. In the example above 2500 x 4 = 10,000 lbs. If your trailer GVWR is less than the total amount you don't need a higher rated tire.
    If you do go to a higher rated tire you most likely would not need to run them at maximum pressure. There are tire pressure charts out there from most reputable tire manufacturers so you can match the pressure to the weight of the trailer. This would reduce some of the bounce.
  • Some people have moved from D-rated ST tires to E-rated LT tires due to the better, IMO, construction of the LT tires. But you need to move up a rating to get the carrying capacity.
  • In many cases the OEM supplied tires are just barely sufficient, for the trailer at full GVWR. They even take into consideration, that some of the wt will be carried by the hitch.

    If D-rated tires are adequate for your trailer wt on the axles, then no need to go to E-rated. If your current tires are at the edge of needed rating, then moving up may be a good idea.

    Jerry

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