tatest wrote:
RE the mis-wired hydraulic pressure switch, the recall changes only the wiring, so that the switch does not stay hot if it fails and shorts out. If the switch has failed, it needs to be replaced, and that will be the same Texas Instrument part that was used OEM.
Recall issue with the switch, specifically, was that any pressure switch can eventually fail as a short, and switch on hot side was different than switch on groung. Fix was a fuse in wiring harness to blow if the switch with high amps. TI never admitted to abnormal switch defects, it failed safely in 10x as many vehicles wired safely.
There are a lot of other elements in ECM managed cruise control, speed sensors and connection failures. You need to find a competent dealer. But replacing the pressure switch would not be a bad idea, whether it fixes cruise control or not.
Well, I now understand why the Ford outfit says my 2004 isn't on the recall. The problem was that on the earlier models that switch had unfused power to it all the time, whether the key was in the ignition or not. With that setup if the switch failed and let that circuit go to ground internally then the wiring became the fuse and melted, sometimes resulting in fires.
In the course of trying to figure out my problem of "no cruise", I found that on my 2004 e450 Ford changed that circuit to become energized at "key on" only. I'm just guessing but since this change in design was no doubt prompted by the recall situation, I would bet that they also put fuse protection in that circuit. In reading lots of info online about this, I found one especially informative Ford service bulletin about installing the recall harness. It recommended unplugging the 10 wire harness plug right next to the cruise actuator on the fender well and filling it with dielectric grease and re-plugging it. It also recommended doing the same with the plug on the switch. I did both these things and "Dave H M" mentioned that he had cruise problems due to the speed sensor on the top of the differential, so I had a look at that. I didn't remove the connector, just wiggled it around a bit because I didn't know the test procedure but I did find a very unsanitary situation with the wire routing, the loom and excessive slack that existed there. A couple of zip-ties righted that. I still couldn't get the icon on the dash to light and I wasn't sure if it would light without it being in motion so I took the rig for a drive and guess what,,,,,the cruise works! But, there is no lighted icon on the dash. Evidently the bulb is toast. nother project...oh boy.
Even though this is working and I now know that this switch isn't "hot" all the time I'm kinda thinking about installing a new switch. The genuine Motorcraft kit, including the switch and the harness is only 25 bucks. I don't think the harness is needed on this rig but the switch is 13 years old and with only 35K on the speedo, it has done a lot of sitting. That, plus the fact that it is mounted on the bottom of the master cylinder facing up, so any bits of moisture would find its way into the switches innards. Any thoughts on this??