Electric heaters
Does anyone know of a electric heater with more than 1500 watts?
Forum Discussion
- If you have an existing heater that is being run at a lower voltage, you can calculate the new wattage using the equation below:
Actual wattage = rated wattage X (applied voltage) squared / (rated voltage) squared.
Example
464 X (105 squared) / (120 squared) =~ 355 watts of actual wattage output.
I can see I'm going to want to use the autoformer for more than just the air conditioner. - Hi rhagfo,
If you are not home to "flip the switch" or the power goes off at 2 a.m. fail over is a desirable feature. I don't know why they did not add it, but they don't have it.
I understand the "cheap heat" extremely well. I also understand why it can't be run at the same time as the propane furnace.
In mid winter I need 7000 watts (23884 btu's) to keep the RV warm. Since the furnace is only 20000 btu's Running a heater in series with it makes a heck of a difference. I am set up to run 100% electrically--and I keep the propane as a back up.
I do lots of winter travel for my work--and I'm not about to suggest to my clients that they install a "special" outlet for me.
I can keep the basement and utilities warm by using a dual window fan to replace the cold air return grill for the furnace. As I'm in a class C that was a necessary upgrade as the propane furnace does not cycle often enough to keep things thawed even if I run the water heater. I run the fans from an inverter. They draw a whole 27 watts.
The heat strip is 1500 watts (13 amps) and produces about 5118 btus. That means I can run it on any 15 amp circuit. See above for heating the basement.
The cheap heat at 20 amps can't be run at all. It probably should not be run on a 20 amp circuit as continuous draw should only be 80% of the capacity. That means the 20 amp unit needs a 25 amp shore power supply. Assuming 115 volts it will "do" 2300 watts or 7847 btu's. That is 35% more than the heat strip, for about 20 times the price.rhagfo wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,
The "cheap heat" system is, in my opinion, the worst possible choice, particularly if you need redundancy.
If the power goes off, it doesn't "fail over" to the propane furnace.
No different than running a propane tank dry, just get up and flip the switch.
I believe that with a little brainstorming one could wire a 12 volt relay feed off a small transformer that provide that function.
It can not be run in series with the propane furnace, so it can not be used to reduce the heating bill from propane.
Why would you want to? It replaces burning propane. when electric mode 100 percent electric heat. if you ran in "series" you would be putting out a tremendous amount of heat. If you read about the product at all you would understand the electric element is an extension of the gas furnace.
It can not be run safely on a 15 amp circuit which eliminates using it at most private homes.
Just requires adding the correct outlet to your home pad, can't run AC on 15 amps either.
If you want heat through the duct work, replace the return air grill with twin window fans.
The 120 volt version can be replaced by a heat strip in the roof air. Cost is about $54.
The 20 amp/ 120 volt version will provide about 50 percent more heat, and heat the basement. pianotuna wrote:
Hi,
The "cheap heat" system is, in my opinion, the worst possible choice, particularly if you need redundancy.
If the power goes off, it doesn't "fail over" to the propane furnace.
No different than running a propane tank dry, just get up and flip the switch.
I believe that with a little brainstorming one could wire a 12 volt relay feed off a small transformer that provide that function.
It can not be run in series with the propane furnace, so it can not be used to reduce the heating bill from propane.
Why would you want to? It replaces burning propane. when electric mode 100 percent electric heat. if you ran in "series" you would be putting out a tremendous amount of heat. If you read about the product at all you would understand the electric element is an extension of the gas furnace.
It can not be run safely on a 15 amp circuit which eliminates using it at most private homes.
Just requires adding the correct outlet to your home pad, can't run AC on 15 amps either.
If you want heat through the duct work, replace the return air grill with twin window fans.
The 120 volt version can be replaced by a heat strip in the roof air. Cost is about $54.
The 20 amp/ 120 volt version will provide about 50 percent more heat, and heat the basement.rhagfo wrote:
I hope though a bit pricey, this will solve my need and be worry free.
The biggest plus is that it provides heat through the duct work, keeping the basement heated and pipes heated.
RV Comfort SystemsDennis12 wrote:
Thank you all for your input. I'll just go and buy another 1500 watt and stay on separate breakers. This forum is worth it's weight in gold. Good people, thank you
I use 1 heater and run a separate extension cord to the 20 amp plug in the box. You might consider this for 1 of your heaters to take the load off of the trailers circuit.- What I've done in our last 2 mh is install an electric toe kick heater. They are basically a small electric furnace. I even put programable t-stats on them. They work much better than the portable heaters, and they don't get in the way, just don't park something in front of them.
- Westend,
Look for an oil filled baseboard heater. That format is the safest I know of. - Hi,
The "cheap heat" system is, in my opinion, the worst possible choice, particularly if you need redundancy.
If the power goes off, it doesn't "fail over" to the propane furnace.
It can not be run in series with the propane furnace, so it can not be used to reduce the heating bill from propane.
It can not be run safely on a 15 amp circuit which eliminates using it at most private homes.
If you want heat through the duct work, replace the return air grill with twin window fans.
The 120 volt version can be replaced by a heat strip in the roof air. Cost is about $54.rhagfo wrote:
I hope though a bit pricey, this will solve my need and be worry free.
The biggest plus is that it provides heat through the duct work, keeping the basement heated and pipes heated.
RV Comfort Systems rhagfo wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I would be tempted to use a hard wired baseboard heater if very high output is desired.
That would be the last thing I would put in an RV! They are a known source of fires in houses. Curtains resting on them couch pressed up next to them.
I hope though a bit pricey, this will solve my need and be worry free.
The biggest plus is that it provides heat through the duct work, keeping the basement heated and pipes heated.
RV Comfort Systems
Didn't know about the fire thing, I was definitely contemplating throwing a couple of 4' baseboards inside. Since I don't have any carpet or curtains hanging, one of these may be safer than a little box on the floor.
Who knows, I'll probably keep the little Honeywell going and another "milkhouse heater". I may hook up some limited hydronic in the heating project path. It bothers me that my batteries are fully charged and that solar panel is still making power.- There are some options for a 120v electric heater. (Above 1500 watts)
I own one, picked it up at Menards for $80. Its 3000 watts.
Just search for "electric garage heater" or "120v electric garage heater".
But yeah there are issues for RV use...as has been said. Mainly wiring and then a dedicated circuit and plug as well. MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I would be tempted to use a hard wired baseboard heater if very high output is desired.
That would be the last thing I would put in an RV! They are a known source of fires in houses. Curtains resting on them couch pressed up next to them.
I hope though a bit pricey, this will solve my need and be worry free.
The biggest plus is that it provides heat through the duct work, keeping the basement heated and pipes heated.
RV Comfort Systems
