Electric space heaters

rhagfo wrote:

Mattress pad heaters go on top of the mattress, not under it. They are just under the sheets.

Ah.
Well, the foam board under the mattress will still make a difference and worth doing. I'm talking from a TC perspective, anyhow.

Bert the Welder wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
theoldwizard1,

I think the brand name was something like "tempertek" for the electric heated carpets.

Found it!

https://www.tempurtechmanufacturing.com/

Do you have foam board or reflectix under your bed?
We put 1" blue foam board under our mattress. Wow, what a difference!!
I ask as, if putting a heat pad under the mattress, insulation under it would put more heat to the side you want it on.

Mattress pad heaters go on top of the mattress, not under it. They are just under the sheets.

pianotuna wrote:
theoldwizard1,

I think the brand name was something like "tempertek" for the electric heated carpets.

Found it!

https://www.tempurtechmanufacturing.com/

Do you have foam board or reflectix under your bed?
We put 1" blue foam board under our mattress. Wow, what a difference!!
I ask as, if putting a heat pad under the mattress, insulation under it would put more heat to the side you want it on.

rhagfo wrote:

2oldman wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:
Also, heated mattress pads work much better than heated blankets,

They do, as heat rises. My heater keeps my feet nice and toasty on the next to lowest setting even on the coldest nights. I'm not talking pianotuna cold, but 40° or lower.

40 degrees is cold we get down to the mid-tees at times. We also use heated mattress pad. Pianotuna’s heated carpet sounds interesting, warm feet!!

Tuna is Canadian. If I'm not mistaken, he's taking -40 degrees C.....not 40 deg. F....... :)

I believe "Saskatchewan" in the the local native language means "Who's the idiot that thought this Popsicle stand was a good place to settle"

I use a radiator style rated 1200 watts to limit amps to about 10 so as not to max out the circuit.
Brand is Delonghi purchased at Costco at least 10 years ago.

wa8yxm wrote:

Curly2001 wrote:
Thanks everyone for your input. I think I need to look at the wiring in the trailer to make sure the boxes are decent. It even makes me think that electric blankets could cause the same problems with their current draw.
Curly

I would not waste time doing that' IF YOU KNOW HOW (I DO) then you can install special outlets as I did. IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW. get someone who does to do it. In my case the manufacturer kind of screwed up (By that I mean it was easy to install 2 of the 3 added circuits and not all that hard on #3
THe location of the breaker panel was ideal.. For one I ran a short 12 ga line (about 12-18") is all cut the hole in the bedroom wall and put in the box.. Easy Peasy.

The Living room took a longer run but the path was all "pre-drilled" so I just ran the cable around the loop and there it was.

The Kitchen 2 I had to run through existing holed down into the wet bay,, pull through with my electrical fish rod (I think I used an actual fishing pole on that wire) and back up into the Living space then along existing holes to the mounting point. That was the HARD one took me about an hour.

But 12 ga wire (Rated 20 amps in wall) either 15 or 20 amp breakers (your choice I use one 20) and 15/20 amp outlets BOX mounted like they used to do everywhere... No "unibox" stuff. You can safely use a 15 amp breaker with 20 amp wires and outlets. but NOT the other way around. Why Did I go with 20 amp capable wire/outlet... I believe in safety margins or overbuilding.. The cost.. perhaps $1.00 more for the job I did. The level of Security .. Worth thousands.

Remove the front cover, if you see the following and no electrical work box then you have backstab outlets like the pix I posted..





Those two Phillips screws are the clamps holding the outlet to the paneling.

There is another older version (I can't find a pix of right now) which has no removable face plate and you will see those two Phillips head screws offset, those are also the same backstab outlets I posted.

I suggest an oil filled radiant unit and a second small cube heater to move air about. We have a small cube heater ($16) from Wal Mart. Had it five years. Really helps

I suggest an oil filled radiant unit and a second small cube heater to move air about. We have a small cube heater ($16) from Wal Mart. Had it five years. Really helps

Hi,

I would avoid digitally controlled heaters. If the power "blips" they may turn off.

I have used 3 portable heaters over many years of use. One was a small cube style which was noisy so I gave it away. The other 2 are regular style 1500 heaters, one has manual controls, the other is digital. Both have lasted a long time. I clean them every few years with air from my compressor. I run a 12 guage extension cord out thru a slideout seal and plug in the the campground power box so the heater is on it's own circuit. I either set the heater on the floor on a ceramic plate from an old microwave or open the stove oven door and set the heater on it. So no concern about overheating anything. On rare occasions when I need 2 heaters I plug the second one into the outlet for the microwave which are usually wired better.